15 things to do in Haenertsburg and Magoebaskloof – Roxanne Reid

By Roxanne Reid
Haenertsburg village lies on the edge of the Great Escarpment in Limpopo, above the Magoebaskloof Pass that snakes towards Tzaneen around hairpin bends that drop about 600m over just 6km – one of the steepest passes in South Africa. Nature lovers come for the forests, waterfalls and birding, adventure lovers for a flock of adrenalin activities. Here’s my pick of things to do in Haenertsburg and Magoebaskloof.

Here in this Land of Silver Mist and high rainfall, you’ll find an abundance of lush forests, waterfalls, mountain and gorge views. Adventure enthusiasts will be on cloud nine choosing their escapade of the day, from forest hiking and mountain biking to ziplining and abseiling. There’s a host of more tranquil activities too, from bird-watching and fly-fishing to exploring beautiful gardens or a host of roadside stalls and restaurants in Haenertsburg and the Magoesbaskloof. (By the way, an alternative spelling is ‘Makgobaskloof’, which is technically more accurate since it was named after a local chief called Makgoba.)

Haenertsburg was named after Carl Ferdinand Haenert, a German prospector who found gold here in 1886. Predictably, a gold rush followed before diggers moved on to Pilgrim’s Rest. Although there are only about 500 residents today, you can get a taste of the gold rush frenzy on weekends when the village buzzes with visitors.

1. Zipline on the Magoebaskloof Canopy Tour 

If you fancy the idea of sliding through the canopy of the indigenous forest at Magoebaskloof in your own version of a Tarzan movie, then Magoebaskloof Canopy Tours is for you. You’ll get a big kick out of ziplining among the trees and cliffs high above the forest floor. Sail over gorges, watch waterfalls plunging into the river below. There are eleven exciting slides and one bridge.

You get a full safety briefing beforehand, and two guides stay with you the whole way to check everything is hunky-dory, and to give you some insight into the ecology and geology of the Letaba River Gorge through which you’re travelling.

Book ahead and find it about 12km south-east of Haenertsburg on the R528. It makes a great 2.5 hours of fun. For your safety, the weight limit is 120kg. You need to be fit enough to walk about 1km uphill out of the forest once the fun is over.

Magoebaskloof Adventures, who run the canopy tour, are also the guys to talk to if you’re looking for other adventures like white-water tubing, abseiling, hiking, mountain biking, kloofing or canyoning.

2. Visit glorious gardens 

Narrow winding paths covered in moss thanks to the mists that blanket the area, lush greenery and alluring ponds, a blaze of azaleas and carpets of cherry blossom. If you love gardens and plants, don’t miss a walk around Cheerio Gardens for inspiration and a deep sensation of tranquility. The gardens are open throughout the year from Thursday to Sunday 9:00 to 17:00, but the best time to visit is in September to see the full-on spring glory. During this month, they open every day from 9:00 to 17:00. Cost is R40 for adults and R20 for children and pensioners (September 2024). They’re also worth visiting in autumn to enjoy the rich gold and russet tones of falling leaves.

The Cheerio Café overlooking a dam makes a splendid place for a light meal before or after your walk (see point 14). You can also go e-biking at Cheerio Gardens.

Other gardens in the Magoebaskloof well worth visiting in September are Sequioa Gardens where some 100 trees are helpfully identified (book and pay ahead), and Kuhestan Organic Farm (open daily from 9:00 to 12:00).

3. Taste beer 

Fancy visiting a small brewery for a laid-back tasting of six types of lagers and ales? Zwakala Brewery has you covered. Turn up the road that goes to Cheerio Gardens and follow the signs to the brewery, which started in 2016 and already has multiple awards for its beers. Sit outside and enjoy the views towards the Wolkberg mountains, keeping an eye on the kids in the play area, or inside close to the brewing tanks where the magic happens.

My favourite was an Indian Pale Ale called Weekend Special, which has lemongrass added in the brewing process, producing an unusual more-ish flavour. The Limpopo Lager is also good, as are the Mexican-style lager and Moringa Ale. I’m not as big a beer drinker as my husband but we both found more to like here than at most craft breweries we’ve been to. The only one I didn’t enjoy was Ximoko, which had a smoky flavour, but brewmaster Prince Malatji suggests it goes well with a braai. There’s also a beer that will appeal to birders and conservationists. It’s called Cape Parrot Ale, and a small percentage of the price of every bottle you buy helps fund conservation efforts to protect the endangered Cape Parrot and its habitat.

What made our visit extra special is that Prince took the time to show us around the 1000-litre brewery and tell us a bit about the brewing process using pure mountain water. The word Zwakala means ‘come closer’ and we found it apt given the welcoming atmosphere. You can have a meal here too (see point 14). The brewery is open Friday to Sunday and Public Holidays 11:00-17:00.

4. Go birding in the Woodbush Forest Reserve 

Take an early morning drive through the dappled sunlight into the Woodbush Forest Reserve – the second-largest indigenous Afromontane forest in South Africa. There’s a 14km drive along gravel roads through this mist-belt forest. Annual rainfall is high and it’s one of the best bird-spotting areas in Limpopo. It’s also a joy to stop and listen to the sound of birdsong.

To get to the forest drive, which is 17km from Haenertsburg, take the R71 east and about 2km past the Magoebaskloof Hotel, turn to the left onto the gravel road to Houtbosdorp/Woodbush and follow the signs. We recommend a high clearance vehicle and patience enough to go slowly.

There are good hikes here too, and being on foot is one of the best ways to see some of the trees, ferns and fungi, as well as to spot birds like crowned eagle, African cuckoo-hawk, Cape parrot, narina trogon, blue-mantled crested flycatcher, chorister robin-chat, black-fronted bush-shrike, orange ground-thrush, buff-spotted flufftail, grey cuckooshrike and yellow-streaked greenbul.

Do you love birding but find those little forest birds difficult to spot because you don’t know their calls? Book a guided tour with bird boffins David Letsoalo on 083 568-4678 or Paul Nkhumane on 084 354-9710. There’s nothing they don’t know about the birds of Limpopo and where to find them. And there’s nothing they like more than giving you a birding bonanza and sending you home happy, with a bunch of new ticks and specials under your belt.

5. Have a picnic at Debengeni Falls 

​If you drive through the Woodbush Forest Reserve (see point 4) you can take a side road to Debengeni Falls before the gravel road spits you back out on the R71. Or if you just want to see the Falls, drive about 22km north-east of Haenertsburg along the R71 and turn left at the sign towards the falls; you don’t need a 4×4 for this gravel road, but high clearance is preferable, or just take it slowly – it’s only about 4km to the falls.

You’ll pay an entrance fee at the boom (in August 2024 we paid R50 per person). And it’s well worth it to see the falls and spend some time wandering along one of the short walks. Best would be to take along a packed picnic to enjoy with the gurgling water as a sound track. There are shady trees, picnic tables, benches and braai places, as well as toilets. We visited on a Monday morning after a long weekend and were impressed to see it already scrubbed clean, not a piece of litter in sight.

From the parking area, a winding path leads you to the base of the Falls, where the Politsi River rushes in layers over smooth rocks into rock cauldrons. In fact, the Sepedi word Debengeni means ‘the place of big pots’. Be careful walking over the rocks as they are very slippery. The place hums on summer weekends, so if you’re looking for a quieter experience it may be better to visit during the week if you can.

6. Go hiking 

The self-guided Louis Changuion Trail meanders through and around Haenertsburg, across the Woodbush Granite Grasslands (the most threatened type of vegetation in Limpopo) and indigenous forest. It’s a good walk to get views of the town and over Ebenezer Dam, to see trees, birds, streams and wildflowers. There are picnic spots along the way. Starting at the corner of Rissik and Goud streets in town, the whole route is about 10km (which should take just under 3h), with a 6.5km shortcut.

Other trails to look out for are the 3km, 5km and 8km hiking/running Schultz Trails next to Krabbefontein Coffeeshop just off the R71 at the bottom of Magoebaskloof Pass. To breathe in the clean mountain air, try the 14.6km Debengeni Waterfall Trail, the 3.3km, 9km or 12km Makgeng Hiking Trail, or the 3.8km Swartbos Trail near the Magoebaskloof Hotel – all through indigenous forest with gorgeous unfolding views.

If you’re afraid of getting lost, choose a two-hour guided trail with the guys at Magoesbaskloof Adventures. The trails take you along the Letaba River, through indigenous forest with views of mountains and waterfalls.

For something more challenging than a day-hike, consider the 2-5 night options on the Magoebaskloof Hiking Trail. Phone 013 754-2724 or email [email protected] / [email protected] for more info (they’ll send you a 16-page pdf). These are also the people who can make your booking for the trail. If you’d prefer the easy option of slackpacking the trail, carrying just a day-pack while the rest of your kit is delivered to the overnight huts at the end of each day, then contact Mark Harman at 084 402-3709 or email [email protected].

7. Visit an ‘old’ mining village 

Haenertsburg began life as a mining village more than 125 years ago so to share a touch of the atmosphere of that time, don’t miss the Pennefather Complex in Rissik Street. It’s an attractive cluster of buildings built in 2005 in the style of old corrugated iron mining houses. You can see it in the intro photo of this post. Some offer very appealing accommodation while others are shops. My favourite is the Memory Hold the Door bookshop (named after the memoir of John Buchan, the Scottish author who wrote about the beauty of the Magoesbaskloof area). It has a good selection of secondhand books, including Africana. Wander through to the adjacent areas and you’ll find gifts, jewellery, antiques, even the Golden Nuggets sweet shop, and the Inni-Berg Coffeeshop on the stoep.

8. Explore Haenertsburg’s shops

Haenertsburg village centre is small and best explored on foot. While Cape Town was still in the grip of winter at the beginning of August, Haenertsburg gardens were already an explosion of flowering camellias, clivias, pointsettias, jasmine, strelitzias and azaleas that were a joy to see.

If you’re in a shopping mood, head for the Pennefather Complex (see point 7) and look out for other places like Tin Roof (gifts, clothing, soaps and other goodies), House of Art/Earth Creations (pottery studio and showroom), Blackburn Leather (handcrafted items like bags and belts), and Lavender House (ceramics, jewellery, gifts and collectibles). If you’re peckish, visit Stella’s Farm Deli for local treats or stop at one of the restaurants and coffeeshops (see point 14).

9. Visit Haenertsburg Cemetery ​

I enjoy visiting cemeteries in search of history and other stories, so Haenertsburg Cemetery in Rabe Street was on my radar. What we found was a lovely natural space where gravestones of granite and lichen-encrusted stone lay in the dappled shade of tall trees. There are some historic graves here, but my favourite memorial was a mosaic bench in bright reds and blues that was placed to overlook the valley. I could imagine family members coming to spend time here to remember their loved ones.

The cemetery is set on a hill so the view out over the valley is one attraction, the quaint stone portico at the entrance another. While we were there, a couple came hand-in-hand just to walk to the end of the path and take in the view. In late winter, the landscape was dry but spring and summer colours were lying in wait, with some cerise azaleas already in bloom on the edges of the cemetery. Although it was sunny when we visited, I could imagine it being hauntingly eerie when cloaked in mist.

10. Hit the mountain bike trail 

If mountain biking sizzles your bacon, you’ll fall in love with the Magoebaskloof area, which offers everything from lush forests and dams to early morning mist. Look for:

• 9km Blue Route – a combo of farm roads and single track
• 17km Yellow Route – fairly flat and not technical
• 22km Green Route – fairly challenging with ups and downs

Find out more about these routes here.

11. Visit the Long Tom Monument 

I love history, especially that of the Anglo Boer War period, so found the Long Tom Monument on the corner of Mare and Kerk streets in Haenertsburg interesting. The 155mm Creusot Long Tom was a cannon used by the Boers in the second Anglo Boer War of 1899-1902, especially in the sieges of Mafeking, Ladysmith and Kimberley. After they adopted guerilla tactics, these cannons were no longer needed so they destroyed them to prevent them falling into British hands. The last Long Tom was blown up near Haenertsburg in 1901. After searching for years, Haenertsburg historian/author Louis Changuion found the site and built the monument in the village to display the pieces.

But the monument isn’t only about the Anglo Boer War. It also pays homage to those who fought and died in the Makgoba War of 1888-1895 – in which Chief Makgoba was killed – the First and Second World Wars, and the border wars of the second part of the 20th century.

12. Stroll through the arboretum
Very near the Long Tom Monument, at the corner of Mare and Plein streets, is an arboretum planted with a variety of trees from temperate regions across five continents. The passion project of local, Mike Gardner, it opened in 1993. In 2000, a peace pole was added at the top end of the arboretum, dedicated to preserving peace in the new millennium. A Millennium Box holding items portraying the life of villagers in the late 20th century was buried with instructions that it should only be opened in 2100. In 2006, a labyrinth was added and is said to be a blaze of colour in spring. When we visited in August, the grass was dry and yellow, and some of the trees were winter-bare, but enlivened here and there by bright splashes of surrounding African coral trees, jasmine, white and cerise azaleas. The arboretum will be lush in its summer green.

13. Visit a cheese farm 

If you book ahead, you can join a 10:00 tour of the dairy and cheese making process on Wegraakbosch Organic Farm. We hadn’t booked ahead because we just wanted to taste and buy. The cheeses were under cover in the small room where they’re made in a big copper pot over a wood fire in the corner. This is all part of the aim to make natural, organic cheeses free of colourants and preservatives. We noted a smokiness to the flavour of some of the cheeses, a result of this process.

Our tasters included Thabeng (a hard Alpine-style cheese), Lesedi (an Emmmenthaler-style cheese) and Havarti (a Danish-style hard cheese) and we bought some of each to taste again later with our wine, when we voted Harvati our favourite. They also make feta, cottage cheese and yoghurt.

Find it off the Cheerio road. It’s open Monday to Friday 7:30-17:00, Saturday and Sunday 7:30-11:30. If you want a tour, book ahead.

14. Eat at Haenertsburg restaurants or in the Magoebaskloof 

There’s lots to choose from when it comes to eating out at Haenertsburg restaurants or in the Magoesbaskloof.

​Top of the pops for us was the Cheerio Café at Cheerio Gardens (see point 2). The pizza was fabulous – thin-based, crispy and just the right amount of topping. Definitely something to go back for. They also do salads, toasties and popular milkshakes. As a bonus, there’s a wonderful view from the café’s terrace over a dam and towards part of the gardens. Although the full spring display wasn’t evident yet in early August, some azaleas were already providing flashes of colour. Go for a short wander along narrow paths or sit on a bench in an arbour on the other side of the dam.

We enjoyed chicken schnitzels with potato wedges and freshly cooked veggies at the Red Plate on Haenertsburg’s main drag. We sat outside under shade umbrellas but if it’s cold you can sit inside near the fireplace. They also do breakfast, fish n chips, grilled trout, burgers, steaks and curries.

Blueberry Farm Café has a deck that looks out over Stanford Lake. Try their breakfast, filled bagels, burgers, fish n chips, chicken cordon bleu, salads, or buffet lunches on Sundays. We went there for dessert and although it wasn’t blueberry season (you need to visit in summer for that) they freeze them and use them in a variety of ways. My baked cheesecake with blueberry topping was delicious. My husband ordered the blueberry pie with cream. The generous slice had a feather-light pastry crust which complemented the tart blueberries. There’s a little shop nearby where you can buy coffee beans, honey, preserves and other blueberry products.

​As coffee lovers, we had to try the Krabbefontein Coffeeshop on the highest coffee farm in the country, about 15km from Haenertsburg towards Tzaneen on the R71. The ambience at the café was shabby chic and very cool, a wonderfully photogenic place. Of course, you have to order coffee of some description, but they also do breakfast, filled roosterkoek, salads, and there’s even a small menu for your furry friend.

Relax on the inviting deck at Habibi Turkish Restaurant if you’re craving real-deal shawarmas, doner kebabs, kofte or pide. For sweet and savoury pancakes in an Alpine-like log cabin, head for The Pancake House. For pub grub like chicken pie, try the Iron Crown Pub & Bistro (named after the area’s highest peak). Enjoy the vibe and if you have a big appetite, ask for the Haenertsburger using local speciality ingredients. 

Zwakala Brewery is open for brunch and lunch from Fridays to Sundays. Choose from a blackboard menu of the day, which includes breakfast, perhaps a chicken salad or gourmet burger. And if bunny chow tickles your fancy, head to Stella’s Farm Deli on the R71 near the turn-off to Haenertsburg village. Sit inside or on the deck. The menu also includes breakfast, jaffels, burgers, and pizzas.

15. Stay in Haenertsburg accommodation or in the Magoebaskloof 
There’s lots to do in the area, so plan to stay at least three or four nights to give you a chance to explore without feeling rushed. There’s something to suit everyone, no matter your favoured style of travel. Love luxury hotels? Tick. Prefer to self-cater? Tick. In fact, you’ll find everything from hotels, guesthouses and lodges to B&Bs, self-catering cottages, and camping.​