By Roxanne Reid
Once a tiny fishing village, Hermanus – just over a 90-minute drive south-east of Cape Town – is now a bustling seaside town with a range of accommodation in all price brackets and tons of things to do. Think wine tasting, good restaurants and art galleries, whale-watching, hiking and long white beaches. Here’s my pick of 17 things to do in Hermanus on the Cape Whale Coast, South Africa.
Hermanus has a magnificent natural setting between mountains and ocean at Walker Bay, with the Bot River Lagoon to the west and the Klein River Lagoon to the east. The town dates back to the early 1800s and later became a popular place for people with tuberculosis to recuperate. By the 1920s there were about 15 sanitoriums in Hermanus and some of them later became hotels that still stand today.
In 2019, Overstrand Hermanus became Africa’s first UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy. To achieve this, it had to put creativity and the creative community at the heart of its urban development plans and ensure a safe, inclusive and sustainable environment. Join in the gastronomic abundance of the area by sampling its food (see point 9) and wines (see point 8).
1. Go beer tasting
If you’re approaching Hermanus from Cape Town, stop at Honingklip Brewery on the R43 to enjoy a tasting of Belgian-inspired beers. The tasting line-up depends entirely on what’s on tap that day. My favourite was the Blond; watch out for the Trippel at 9% alcohol. You can also buy beer by the bottle to take away, order a light meal or go adventuring along a mountain bike trail on the farm.
In Hermanus itself, try The Brewery in the Hemel-en-Aarde Village. Order a tasting tray of five varieties from lager and pale ale to pilsener and stout. For those who don’t love beer, order from the wine list or choose from a selection of spirits, non-alcoholic drinks and milkshakes. Hungry? Enjoy a meal, from salads, pizzas, sushi and burgers to pork belly and mussels.
2. Visit a museum
Don’t miss a visit to the museums in Hermanus. The Old Harbour is an open-air museum below the main square that depicts the history of the fishing and whaling industry around Hermanus (see the intro photo). See some restored old fishing boats, the jetty and the tables where fish was gutted and cleaned, as well as indoor displays in stone buildings where fishing shacks used to stand in days gone by.
The whale museum has interesting displays on types of whales (e.g. baleen, toothed), different species, whale sense, echolocation, how they feed, and actions like spyhopping, breaching and lobtailing. A southern right whale skeleton hangs above everything, with displays to show its internal organs and bones. It’s fascinating to see that the flipper consists of a humerus, radius, ulna and phalanges, just like the human arm and hand.
The photo museum next to the whale museum displays a wealth of historical sepia photos in a cottage that was once a school house. Enjoy pictures of Hermanus when it was just a tiny fishing village, of the old harbour, holiday fashions and bathing in the old days, and early hotels like the Windsor Hotel, which was originally a sanatorium. Although you can wander around with a pamphlet that gives you more info about the photos, I find it frustrating because it’s not easy to match the info to the specific photo. I’d prefer if each photo in the exhibition had its own info panel next to it.
3. Walk the cliff path
Take a walk along at least part of the Cliff Path that meanders alongside the sea and the rocks for more than 10km – you’d be crazy to miss it. Listen to the birds calling and the sound of the waves crashing on the rocks, feel the spray shooting into the air, see southern right whales between June and November. One popular section is from the Old Harbour or Gearing’s Point towards the New Harbour. Simply turn around and walk back when you feel like it. View the public art at Gearing’s Point (see point 12 for more about art in Hermanus). Learn from the biodiversity info boards along the way about how the coastline formed, how plants help with disease control, medicines, water purification, and more. Enjoy the natural scenery in a town that’s growing so big, so fast.
4. Take a hike at Fernkloof Nature Reserve
The 18-square-kilometre Fernkloof Nature Reserve is the perfect place for those who want to get away from the hustle and bustle of town and enjoy a walk in the mountains. Enjoy the fresh air, blue skies and views of the sea and town, take time to appreciate birds like Cape sugarbirds and orange-breasted sunbirds, and the Cape fynbos – six of the seven endemic plant families of the Cape Floral Kingdom can be found here. You may even spot animals like klipspringer, grysbok, mongoose, baboon or dassie. Enjoy a 60km network of trails; keep to the footpaths and don’t pick the flowers. There
’s also a cycle trail.
If you’re a plant enthusiast, don’t miss the Hermanus Botanical Society and Fernkloof Nature Reserve’s Fernkloof Flower Festival in September. Expect displays about the plants and birds of Fernkloof, a plant sale, and some fynbos-inspired workshops.
5. Drive the Rotary Way
About 2km west of town is the starting point of a wonderful mountain drive that brings you to viewpoints overlooking the town and the ocean. You can see all the way from the New Harbour to the Klein River estuary and beyond. You can also climb to the top of Hoy’s Koppie in town for a nice view, but since you look down on the koppie from Rotary Way, you can imagine how much more worthwhile it is to drive up here.
6. Spend time at the beach
You can’t come to Hermanus and not enjoy the long white beaches that surround the town. Two favourites are Voelklip and Grotto beaches. Dutchies restaurant does a roaring trade at Grotto Beach, but you can walk further away before planting yourself in the sand if solitude is more your style.
7. Go whale-watching
By far the most popular activity during whale season (June to November) is Hermanus whale watching. This is when you can usually see southern right whales, which come here to mate, calve and raise their young before returning to the Antarctic to feed. That’s not to say that if you visit outside these months you won’t see any whales – humpbacks, Bryde’s whales and dolphins occur at Hermanus all year round.
During whale season, listen for the whale crier who blows his kelp horn to alert the public to sightings nearby. Gearing’s Point on Marine Drive is a good place to view the whales. If you don’t mind crowds, you’ll love the Hermanus Whale Festival each September. There’s usually a street parade, a fun run, fascinating nature talks, displays in the eco-marine tent, arts and crafts, music and kids’ activities.
Those who want more than land-based whale watching can pay for an exciting whale-watching boat trip from the New Harbour with Southern Right Charters.
8. Enjoy Hermanus wine tasting
If you love your wine and want to go wine-tasting, Hermanus is going to make you very happy, with a wide array of some of the best wineries in South Africa. Try Benguela Cove on the Bot River lagoon about 18km east of Hermanus if only for its gorgeous setting, or Hermanuspietersfontein for wacky wines called Kaalvoet Meisie, Kleinboet and Swartskaap.
Without doubt, my favourite stomping ground for Hermanus wine tasting is the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, which has around 20 wineries like Newton Johnson, Hamilton Russell, Bouchard Finlayson and Creation, many of them with expansive views over the vineyards from their tasting rooms and some food offerings as well.
Visit Spookfontein for its lovely position in the vineyards above the valley and the story of its name. Back in the 1800s, when the farm was established, the iron in the water of the fontein, or spring, interacted with the cool coastal breeze to create mist, which the locals thought was a spook, or ghost.
Although Ataraxia wines are yummy, it’s worth a visit just for the tasting room that looks like a small chapel – sometimes hired out for intimate weddings. The name Ataraxia means a feeling of serenity and that’s what you get looking through the windows onto the vineyards.
Some wineries are open by appointment only; for others, check opening times on the Hemel en Aarde Wines website before you go.
9. Eat at some Hermanus restaurants
Tripadvisor lists more than 120 Hermanus restaurants and coffee shops so there are lots to choose from. Given the town’s seaside location, many of them specialise in seafood, but there’s a wide variety that includes everything from steakhouses and bistros to Italian, Greek and Asian.
My all-time favourite Hermanus restaurant over the past 20 years has been Mogg’s Country Cookhouse on a farm surrounded by mountains up the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley road. It’s relaxed and friendly, there’s a garden and small playground for the kids to work off some energy, and the food is consistently good, using the freshest ingredients and luscious flavour combinations. Don’t miss the yummy starters (I sometimes have two!) or the scrumptious lamb shank. Note that Mogg’s is open only for lunch on Wednesdays to Sundays from 12:00 till 2:30. Read my post, Mogg’s Country Cookhouse: a winning recipe, to find out more about why we love it so much.
Another good place to try if you enjoy a sea view and the buzz of the Hermanus Waterfront is Pear Tree, which offers anything from seafood to burgers, poke bowls to tacos. Other Hermanus restaurants with views out to sea include La Pentola at the Hermanus Waterfront and The Rock at the New Harbour.
I especially enjoy the views from restaurants set right on the rocks, like Bientang’s Cave, a seafood restaurant in a cave near the Old Harbour. We haven’t eaten here for a number of years so I don’t know what the food is like at present, but you’ll definitely enjoy the setting. Ficks is a strong rival right along the rocks above Fick’s Pool, perfect for sundowners and snacks on a hot summer afternoon or evening. Another on-the-rocks eatery with an inspiring outlook over Walker Bay is Perlemoen below the Old Harbour on Marine Drive. As the name suggests, one of its seafood specialities is abalone (perlemoen), but it also serves calamari, mussels, hake & chips, and seafood pasta.
10. Go shopping
There are tons of shops in Hermanus, selling virtually anything you could possibly want. Here are three of my perennial favourites.
Hemingways Bookshop is a jewel in busy Hermanus, a place to retreat from the hurly-burly, smell the evocative aroma of old books and disappear into a different world. It has a great selection of good books, including Africana. Try not to get lost once you cross the threshold.
Romantiques is an enchanting treasure trove of old tins, old toys, antiques, music instruments, dinky cars, old woodworking tools, military collectables, crockery, silver and objects d’art. You could browse for three hours and still not find everything that’s interesting. There’s lots of stuff like my granny used to have, which is quite nostalgic. There’s also a cinema with Wednesday night and Saturday afternoon movies.
Visiting The Wine Village at the bottom of the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley road is another of my favourite things to do in Hermanus. It has a superb selection of wines both from the region and further afield in South Africa. If you don’t have time to go to individual estates, this is the place to buy a few bottles to take home with you. There are usually a few bottles open for tasting and the staff is amazingly knowledgeable and helpful. There’s probably not a bottle in the place they haven’t tasted.
11. Poke around some Hermanus markets
The Curio & Craft Daily Market at the Old Harbour Market Square is worth looking at when you visit the museums (see point 2). The individually run stalls are open every day, selling a variety of arts and crafts such as sculptures, wood carvings, paintings, beaded objects and jewellery. You’ll also find a good mix of clothes and, of course, souvenirs of Hermanus. Browse the stalls and support this effort, then grab a cuppa at one of the coffee shops nearby.
There’s also a Country Market from 9:00 till 13:00 on Saturday mornings at the corner of Fairways Avenue and José Burman Drive. Pop in to experience the laid-back vibe and buy items like cheese, artisanal breads, pastries, craft beer, wine, gin and good coffee. Hermanuspietersfontein Winery also hosts a Saturday morning market. Find it at The Village at the turnoff onto the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley road.
12. Tour an abalone farm
Near the New Harbour is the Abagold abalone farm where you can put on gumboots to tour the facility on Mondays to Fridays at 11:00. A guide takes you around the farm where abalone is cultured to fulfill the huge demand for this species without putting pressure on wild stocks. Learn about its life-cycle and the threats from poaching, see the hatchery and how the abalone are fed, sorted and cleaned for export. You can also have a tasting or visit the shop in the shed, which sells canned abalone, abalone shells, abalone pearls and jewellery.
13. Visit an art gallery
There are more than 20 galleries and studios in Hermanus. Put on your walking shoes and take a stroll around the village, gallery-hopping along the way. Don’t miss the Art Alley in Warrington Lane, with its colourful ‘carpet’ painted on the bricks between galleries showing off everything from paintings and sculptures to ceramics and photography. Stop for a cup of coffee when you need a pick-me-up. There’s also a small sculpture park across the road from the Art Alley. Don’t miss the open-air sculptures above the old harbour at Gearing’s Point, which change from time to time.
An annual Hermanus Fynarts festival takes place in June, chocablock with performances, talks, exhibitions, food and wine events, workshops and demonstrations. Another event worth noting is the Hermanus First Friday Art Walk every month except June, July and August. Get a map at any of the Hermanus galleries and head off to explore galleries and artist studios that stay open until 20:30. You may even get a glass of wine and small snacks.
14. Visit the South African National Space Agency
Why, might you ask, is the South African National Space Agency (SANSA) located off the beaten track in Hermanus? Well, the lack of a railway line means it doesn’t interfere with the magnetic measurements. SANSA was created to strengthen co-operation in space-related activities while fostering research in space science. Its work includes monitoring space weather and Earth’s fluctuating electromagnetic field. If all this gets you excited, make sure you don’t miss the free hour-long tour every Wednesday at 11:00.
15. Go sea kayaking in Walker Bay
Had too much good food and wine in Hermanus – and who doesn’t overindulge here? A perfect way to work it off is to go sea kayaking from the Old Harbour with Walker Bay Adventures. Join a guide for a two-hour adventure to explore the coast and perhaps spot seals, dolphins or even whales while enjoying a different view of Hermanus town. Don’t worry if you’ve never kayaked before; your guide will brief you on techniques and safety before you hit the water.
Bring shorts and a T-shirt, windbreaker/fleece, towel, sunhat and sunscreen, as well as a change of clothes for afterwards. Note that if there’s too much wind or swell, the trip may be cancelled for your safety.
If sea kayaking doesn’t appeal to you, Walker Bay Adventures also offers other active experiences like horse trails, quad biking, kite surfing and scuba diving.
16. Stay over in Hermanus accommodation
There’s no question that a day in Hermanus isn’t nearly enough to explore it properly. You’ll definitely want to check out some Hermanus accommodation and stay over for a few days. Whether you want to push out all the stops in a luxury seafront boutique hotel, go budget self-catering, or stay in a B&B or backpackers’ accommodation, Hermanus has something to suit everyone. There’s even camping in nearby Onrus if that’s your thing. To explore some of the many options, have a look at Hermanus Tourism’s website.
17. Take a day trip
We’ve established that there’s tons to do in Hermanus, but the town is also is well-positioned for trips to other towns and villages nearby. If you feel like getting out into the surrounding countryside, head for one of these places either as a day trip or as a stopover on your way to or from Hermanus.
Getting to Hermanus
Hermanus is about 120km south-east of Cape Town via the N2, which will take you over Sir Lowry’s Pass. At Bot River, turn onto the R43 (exit 90), which will take you past Vermont and Onrus to Hermanus. If you’re approaching along the N2 from the Garden Route to the east, turn left towards Stanford on the R326 about 8km west of Riviersonderend. Once you come to the traffic circle at Stanford, turn right (third exit) onto the R43 and continue for about 25km to Hermanus.
Best time to visit Hermanus
What is the best time to visit Hermanus? I can truthfully say that it is a year-round destination, so choosing your time has more to do with your preferences. Summers (November to February) are hot and sunny with blue skies and temperatures in the 20s or low 30s Celsius. There may be one or two days of rain during these months, although most of the rain falls in winter. December to February is the busiest season in Hermanus, with lots of local and overseas visitors.
The winter months of June to August are cooler, with lows of around 12-13 degrees Celsius and highs in the upper teens. Bear in mind when planning your activities that Hermanus is primarily a winter rainfall area, with some 70-95mm of rain likely to fall in any one of these months. This is the second busiest tourist season in Hermanus given that it’s peak time for whale-watching.
Although we often visit in the busy summer months, my preferred seasons are perhaps the more temperate spring (September/October) and autumn (April/May). I particularly fancy early September, when temperatures are neither too hot nor too cold, there’s less than 10% chance of rain, and a high chance of spotting whales in Walker Bay as well as lots of birds on your hikes. If you dislike crowds, try to avoid the weekends towards the end of September when Hermanus hosts the Fernkloof Flower Festival (see point 4 above) and the much busier Whale Festival (see point 7).
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