20 things to do in Paternoster on the West Coast – Roxanne Reid

By Roxanne Reid
For the locals, life in Paternoster revolves around the sea. Fishing is the historical lifeblood of the village and fishermen still go out almost every day in their colourful wooden boats. For visitors, of course, there’s more variety. Here are 20 things to do in Paternoster on the West Coast of South Africa.

​Paternoster lies about 160km north of Cape Town, or almost a two-hour drive. But in appearance and atmosphere, this little West Coast fishing village is worlds apart from the Big City bustle. Here, the pace is laidback and relaxed in a way that seems timeless. White-washed cottages in Cape coast style and colourful fishing boats that go out in the hope of a good catch appear to have been caught in a time warp.

One story goes that the name Paternoster, which is Latin for Our Father, comes from the prayers of shipwrecked Portuguese sailors who made it to shore safely. Another theory suggests the local Khoisan Strandlopers who lived here some 165 000 to 90 000 years ago wore beads called Paternosters. Neither claim has been substantiated or confirmed, so you’re free to believe whichever one appeals to you most.

Let the wind and waves call to you as you walk on the beach, gaze at dolphins as they gambol in the waves. See the splash of a whale, listen to the call of kelp gulls. Watch the fishing boats come in to shore with their catch. Taste West Coast seafood and flavours in one of the village’s many good restaurants.

If all this seems too contemplative for you, knock yourself out with a multitude of adventure activities like horse riding, kayaking and e-biking. Here’s my pick of the best things to do in Paternoster.

1. Enjoy some West Coast humour

Look out for the battered windmill on your right-hand side as you drive from Vredenburg to Paternoster along the R399. Its legs still stand straight and tall but most of its blades are missing or broken and it looks sad and lost. A signage company saw an opportunity for a bit of fun and advertising too, erecting a huge blue and yellow sign with the word Moertoegepomp. (It now also serves to remember one ‘Plakkies’ Fourie.) For those who don’t understand Afrikaans, the sign says something like ‘pumped to hell’, only a lot more pithy.

Look out for other flashes of humour too; they’re not hard to find. Like the car with the vanity licence plate declaring to any potential thieves, ‘DUS MYNE’ (this is mine).

2. Visit the Cape Columbine Nature Reserve ​

The Cape Columbine Nature Reserve covers some 263ha along a rocky stretch of coastline a few kilometres south-west of town. The best time to visit is in August and September, when the West Coast spring flowers are at their best. There are a number of picnic or braai spots, and camping at Tieties Bay. People like to giggle at this name but in reality it has nothing to do with boobs. The story goes that a local fisherman called Jacob Titus drowned here so the area was named Titus se Baai (Titus’ Bay) in his memory. Tietiesbaai is a mispronounciation that gained traction.

Read more about Cape Columbine Nature Reserve

3. Visit the Cape Columbine lighthouse 

The lighthouse on Castle Rock inside the Cape Columbine Nature Reserve is one of the last manually controlled lighthouses in South Africa. It was built in 1936. The powerful light is 80m above sea level and can be seen from about 60km away. For a small fee, the light-keeper will let you climb the 97 steps to the top of the tower to admire the view. On misty mornings in Paternoster, listen for the sound of the foghorn warning fishermen of difficult conditions.

4. Go birding
Bird watching in the area is good, with some 250 bird species to be found. Cape Columbine Nature Reserve is one of the best places at Paternoster to see a mix of land and sea birds, including herons, kestrels, francolins, cormorants, sacred ibis, seagulls, and the endangered black oystercatcher which breeds along the coast here.

5. See the spring flowers 

The fields around Paternoster break into glorious colour from late July to September, but by far the best display is in the Cape Columbine Nature Reserve, with its carpet of white, yellow, orange and purple spring flowers. Read more about them in the link in point 2 above.

6. Go whale-watching
If you’re observant, you may be able to spot some dolphins, seals, penguins or whales during your visit to Paternoster. Although you’re most likely to see humpback whales, occasional sightings of southern right whales also occur. Thanks to the Benguela current off the West Coast, the area offers year-round whale watching, although there are usually more in October and November. ​

7. Go kayaking 

Get energised with some sea kayaking. Paddle between the rocks to see seabirds and penguins. Go out beyond the breakers and drink in the fresh sea air to see Paternoster from a different viewpoint. You might be lucky to spot dolphins or even some humpback whales, and you’ll almost certainly be able to watch seals swimming and fishing around you.

Kayak Paternoster offers a friendly and knowledgable guide to keep you safe while you have fun. You must book ahead. The first trip of the day is at 7:00, then 8:30 and 10:00, each lasting about 60min. If the trip is cancelled because of bad weather, you’ll get a refund. Maximum group size is 16 people. The tours leave from the Paternoster Waterfront.

8. Walk on the beach 

Although some people find the sea water a bit cold for swimming, the long white beaches are perfect for walking. You may even get a chance to watch traditional fishermen launch their bright-coloured wooden boats from the beach or come in to shore with their catch. On a windless day, the beach is also a good place to take a book and park under an umbrella or watch the sunset light up the sky in shades of pink and mauve. When it’s windy, try flying a kite for an infusion of fun. You might even want to get takeaway fish n chips from Ietsi Alz to eat on the beach. Find it down Seeduiker Street, behind the cement tables built for fishermen to clean their catch.

9. Go horse riding
Want to feel the wind in your hair as you ride along the beach? Whether you’re a beginner or experienced rider, you’ll enjoy an outride with Drikus Horse Trails. There are rides at 10:00 and 15:00 (although these shift to 9:30 and 16:00 when it’s very hot). Each ride along Langstrand beach lasts approximately an hour and 15min. They operate every day, except Sunday afternoons. Book ahead, no children under 8 years old. Trails start from the stables on the gravel road between Paternoster and Stompneus Bay. The turnoff is about 6km from Paternoster.

10. Go e-biking 

Join a WOW e-bike tour at Cape Columbine Nature Reserve (Tietiesbaai and the lighthouse) or choose a beach tour at Paternoster at low tide. It’s easy going on these electric-powered bikes and the fat tyres give good traction on sand. If your kids can ride a bike and aren’t too small for the kiddies’ e-bikes, they’re welcome to ride along. If they’re too small – even babies – they can come in a child seat with mom or dad. 

Times depend on the tides, but default times are 10:00, 13:00 and 16:00. Tours last about 90min and start from the WOW e-bike office at the Paternoster Waterfront. Remember to bring your driver’s licence or ID document if you’re South African and want to qualify for local rates.

11. See the Panty Bar at the Paternoster Hotel 

The Paternoster Hotel – famous for its pub called the Panty Bar – was built in 1863 and served as a bank, church, school, library and jail before becoming a hotel in 1940. It’s been in the Carosini family for around 50 years, Afrikaners despite their Italian name and heritage. Here women’s panties of all sizes and types hang in rainbow disarray, hinting at booze-fuelled parties that may have gone a step too far.

The collection was removed in 1983 when a straight-laced dominee complained about the ‘unholy’ practice, but reinstated again in the 1990s. Local gossip has it that the hapless cop charged with removing them was forever called Panty Basson by anyone who knew the story.

12. Take in a show at Die Koelkamers 
Love culture and entertainment? Browse some of the upcoming shows scheduled at Die Koelkamers at the Paternoster Waterfront and book your tickets before your visit. This is a creative place and community centre for performance art, live music, art exhibitions, and children’s theatre. Acts might include the likes of Karen Zoid, Marc Lottering, Amanda Strydom, Arno Carstens, Rumours of Fleetwood Mac Tribute Band, Dan Patlansky, and Stef Bos.

13. Visit the landmark Winkel op Paternoster 

Die Winkel at Paternoster, on the corner of St Augustine Street and the R399, has long been a landmark in the village. It’s undergone a huge change since our last visit. The wooden boat and old black bicycle still greet you as you enter but the red, blue and white colour scheme has been toned down to just blue and white. It’s now called DiSpens.

Inside, the magpie muddle has gone too, in favour of a minimalist décor. There’s still a bistro where you can order a meal, and they still sell items like bread, cakes and foodie gifts, but the clutter has gone. No more pram-loads of nuts and dried fruit, no more rickety dressers stuffed with crockery, veldskoen, dolls, and enamelware. Gone too are the old suitcases and Mazawattee tins, the faded tin signs advertising Hubbly Bubbly or Lion condensed milk. I quite miss them, but they were apparently part of the previous owner’s collection. Now her son, Wolfgat chef Kobus van der Merwe, has taken over and the space reflects his cleaner, simpler style.

14. Explore down a rabbit hole 

Don’t miss a visit to The Hobnobbery next door to the Winkel op Paternoster (see point 13). It’s a delightful co-op with low ‘hobbit doors’, tight spaces, plants, mirrors, mismatched furniture, clothing, scarves, hats, jewellery, cakes, croissants, sourdough bread, cheeses, deli items, wine and beer. It’s worth visiting just to browse the quirky spaces, but we had nice coffee and cheesecake here too. Sit in the shade outside or in one of the delightful spaces inside.

15. Go shopping
If you can tear yourself away from the beach, nature reserve and restaurants, you might be tempted to go shopping while you’re in Paternoster. There’s a clutch of interesting little shops worth exploring, like the Trading Post (clothing and accessories, gifts, jewellery, souvenirs), Jem & Pantoffels (a wide range of gifts, with a coffee shop corner), Maneki at the Waterfront (homeware and lifestyle), the Shell Shop and the Boho Beach Shop. Find foodie gifts at DiSpens (see point 13) or The Hobnobbery (see point 14).

16. Taste craft beers 

Love beer? You have to taste a range of artisanal beers at Paternoster Brewery in Seemeeu Crescent. Choose from light, refreshing Lager or crisp Pilsener, fruity Weiss, India Pale Ale (IPA) with a hint of grapefruit, or Honey Porter. Alcohol content ranges from 3.5% in the Lager to a hefty 5.8% in the IPA. If you’re a teetotaller, you can enjoy a non-alcoholic Honey Rooibea iced tea. We showed some interest in the brewing process and were lucky enough to get a short impromptu tour of the brewing room.

There’s a small menu and a full bar for those who want to enjoy a meal on the patio outside. Choices include items like burgers, oysters, fish n chips, and chicken wraps.

17. Go wine tasting 

If you’re visiting Paternoster and won’t have a chance to spend time at wine estates closer to Cape Town, you’ll be thrilled to know that you can taste and buy a wide selection of South African wines at the Paternoster Wine & Tasting Lounge. There are various tastings to choose from, from a blackboard tasting of the day (six wines), a La Motte tasting (six wines), Wightman & Sons tasting (6 wines), Holden Manz tasting (five wines), even a bubbly pairing of four MCCs with Turkish Delight or nougat. If wine isn’t your thing, try a brandy pairing or gin tasting. Closed Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday.

18. Get arty

If art is your thing, stroll around the village and pop in to some of the local art and craft centres, potteries and galleries, like the At Botha Art Gallery and Stonefish Studio & Gallery. Duck into the Art Shed at the Paternoster Waterfront, which includes a number of gallery spaces displaying work by different artists, from glass art, ceramics and oils to portraits, seascapes, and more.

19. Visit some Paternoster restaurants 

Food – especially seafood – is an important part of the West Coast experience. There are more than 20 Paternoster restaurants ranging from burger and pizza places to fine dining. Booking is essential for dinner and advised for lunch. Each restaurant is closed on some days of the week, so check this when booking.

The Noisy Oyster is one of our favourites for good food and a quirky atmosphere best appreciated under fairy lights at night. There’s a number of really good restaurants right on the beach, like Leeto, Gaaitjie, Voorstrandt (the only green and red building in Paternoster) and De See Kat at the Paternoster Waterfront. Seafood like calamari, line fish, oysters and mussels are the things to look for. De See Kat does good sushi too. The award-winning Wolfgat is another beachfront property but offers a somewhat different experience – a sophisticated tasting menu combining seafood with unusual Strandveld plants harvested from the area. It’s booked up three months in advance.

If you’re craving pizza, try Blikkie Pizzeria and enjoy the sea view. I also like to support Cathy’s Kitchen where service is friendly, food is tasty and filling, and there’s a chance to learn more about the non-profit Hoopsig project that runs regular workshops to give local kids life skills and hope for a better future. You can add a donation to this worthy cause to your restaurant bill. Cathy’s Kitchen is only open in the mornings.

Find out more about Paternoster restaurants worth visiting.

20. Stay in Paternoster accommodation 

There’s no shortage of places to stay in Paternoster. Choose from swanky four- and five-star luxury hotels, lodges and guesthouses or more affordable self-catering options. For the budget-conscious visitor there’s camping right next to the sea at Tietiesbaai in the Cape Columbine Nature Reserve. Just don’t go in the summer holiday season, when it’s packed and a bit short of ablutions for the multitudes (there are about 60 sites, each allowing up to six people, and only three ablution blocks). Out of season, it’s wonderfully peaceful and beautiful, a medley of bays, rocks and beaches.

Good websites to browse when looking for accommodation include Stay in Paternoster and Visit Paternoster.

Getting to Paternoster
Paternoster is about a two-hour drive from Cape Town. My favourite route is along the R27 that runs along the coast to give you lots of sea views, then turning onto the R45 to Vredenburg, and finally the R399 to Paternoster. Find Paternoster on Google maps here.

Best time to visit Paternoster
With its Mediterranean climate, any time of year is a good time to visit Paternoster. Summers are hot and can be breezy with offshore winds. The benefit of the wind is that it keeps things cooler than in the interior, with summer temperatures generally in the mid 20s (Celsius). Winters are cool and unruffled, with lows of 11-12 degrees. Rain is infrequent, with a total of around 280mm a year. Most of it falls in winter, especially in June (some 50mm). June to August each experiences an average of five or six days of rain. Ocean swimmers will want to know that average Atlantic temperatures at Paternoster in summer are around 15 or 16 degrees, with winter not much colder at around 14 degrees.

Paternoster is incredibly popular and busy in the summer, especially December to February when both South Africans and international visitors flock there to experience its natural surroundings, numerous activities, and good restaurants. August to September is also very busy because of the spring flowers. If you don’t enjoy being surrounded by lots of people, or are looking for discounted accommodation rates, you might want to avoid these months. Winter can be appealing with its chance to enjoy logfires and hot chocolate, but remember if food is your passion, remember that some restaurants close for their annual winter break in June/July low season.

Perhaps my favourite seasons are autumn (especially April) and spring (especially September), which allow you to experience all that Paternoster has to offer without any of the extremes of weather. August and September are the best months to see myriad wild flowers cover the landscape with a kaleidoscope of colours. 

Tips for your Paternoster visit

• Be careful with your valuables. Although tourists don’t experience violent crime in Paternoster, be aware that there is petty crime. For instance, be conscious of your surroundings if you’re carrying an expansive camera, and don’t leave your phone in an open bag. Also, lock all valuables out of sight in the boot of your vehicle or take them into your accommodation with you. If something worth having is easily visible in the vehicle through the windows, someone may break the window to steal it, and then you’re dealing with theft as well as damage to the vehicle.
• Note that although the Cape Columbine Nature Reserve is open daily from 8:00 till 16:00, the lighthouse itself is only open from 10:00 till 15:00 on Mondays to Fridays (closed on the weekend).
• What to pack? No matter the season, take a jacket with you because the weather can change suddenly; a windbreaker can be useful even in summer. Bring your camera/phone, binoculars, a hat, sunglasses, and plenty of sunscreen, especially in summer. Carry water so you don’t get dehydrated.
• Book restaurants beforehand so you won’t be disappointed. This is especially important for dinner, but you may get lucky at lunchtime outside peak season. Remember that each restaurant is closed on certain week days, so check in advance. They don’t all close on the same days so there’s always somewhere open to enjoy a meal. Note too that some restaurants close for their annual break in June and July.
• You also need to book in advance for activities like e-biking, horse riding and kayaking. Use the links (in blue-green) in the points above to make contact with the activity leaders.
• Self-catering and looking for supermarket supplies? There’s a well-stocked OK Mini-Mark in Mosselbank Street for everything from fresh fruit and veg to meat for a braai and general groceries, everything but booze. Open daily. There’s also an ATM here.
• Rock lobster/crayfish/kreef is now on the SA Sustainable Seafood Initiative’s red list – in other words, don’t buy them. This is because stocks in the oceans are so low that they’re unsustainable. Even if you see people selling them on the side of the road in Paternoster, don’t expect to find them in ethical restaurants. I know it’s tempting to buy them to support local fishermen but resist the temptation so wild stocks have a chance to replenish for the future.

 
Other places to visit near Paternoster
Other places to visit on the West Coast on your way to or from Paternoster include:

• West Coast Fossil Park – 29km away
• Langebaan – 39km
• West Coast National Park – 49km
• Yzerfontein – 81km
• Darling – 87km

Other small West Coast settlements not far from Paternoster include:

• Britannia Bay – 18km
• St Helena Bay – 18km

You may also enjoy
West Coast National Park: the ultimate guide
Why you should visit the West Coast Fossil Park
10 things you may not know about Yzerfontein
20 things to do in Darling

Like it? Pin this image!