Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles stage, Camino Frances

The route from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles is the first stage of the Camino Frances. It’s considered to be the toughest stage of the entire 800-kilometer route. Despite the name Camino Frances or the French Way the first stage is the only one that goes through France the rest of the Camino is in Spain. 

The stage is challenging due to a steep and very long ascent over the pass in the Pyrenees with a subsequent descent to Roncesvalles. 

The two routes from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles

The first stage of the Camino Frances has two routes; the Napoleon Route (over the pass) and the lower route along the road through Valcarlos.

The Napoleon Route (the pass) is closed from 1st November to 31st March due to snow. This route is very challenging due to a steep and long ascent over 1400 m. It’s a more scenic and quiet route with very few cars.

The lower route is open year-round. In winter months (when the Napoleon Route is closed) it’s the only way to walk from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles. Most of it is on the road with quite a bit of traffic including trucks. If you walk this route make sure to be visible (wear bright color jacket/rain poncho/backpack cover with reflectors), stick to the shoulder of the road and walk facing the traffic.

The map of the stage

The route overview (Napoleon route)

• Distance – 25 km/15,5 mi
• Time – 6-7 hours 
• Walking surface – 14 km/8,6 mi – asphalt/tar; 11 km/6,8 mi – footpath/gravel
• Ascent – 1400 m
• Descent – 646 m
• Difficulty level – 5 out of 5

GPX of the trail from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles

You can download our GPX files of the route and use them on your devise for navigation.

PDF of the stage

You can download our free PDF with a detailed description of the first stage of the Camino Frances and places to stay along the route.

Where does the Camino Frances start?

The first stage of the Camino Frances starts in the small town of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, south-western France. From the center of the town (Notre-Dame Gate) cross the old bridge and follow Rue d’Espagne and then Rte de Saint-Michel that will take you out of the town. Then follow Rte de Maréchal Harispe/Rte Napoleon (D428).

Find out the best ways of getting to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port.

Pilgrim’s Information Office

The Pilgrim’s information office is a few hundred meters away from the Municipal Albergue, Rue de la Citadel, 39. At the office you can buy a Credential (pilgrim’s passport), get a map of the stage, and some information on the route, and put a stamp in your Credential.

Places to stay in St.Jean-Pied-de-Port

Can I split the stage?

Yes, it’s possible to split this challenging stage to make the walk easier. There are two places to stop; Refuge Orisson at 8 km/5 mi and Auberge Borda, at 9 km/5,5 mi. 

This way you walk:

• on the first day – 8-9 km/5-5,5 mi and 650 m up. 
• on the second day – 16-17 km/10-10,5 mi, 750 m up, and 646 m down. 

Refuge Orisson is not big, definitely book a bed/room in advance. They have dormitories with bunk beds and private rooms. The rates include accommodation, dinner, and breakfast.

Auberge Borda is even smaller, 1 dormitory with 4 beds and 1 private room. Booking in advance is highly recommended. The room price includes breakfast and dinner.

There is a place earlier on the route, about 5 km from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port.

Is the route well-marked?

The French part of the route from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port is marked as GR-65 with red and white stripes and sings Route de Napoleón. Here in there you can see a yellow arrow. Once in Spain you will start seeing traditional Camino route markings (yellow shells and arrows).

Can I walk from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles in winter?

The mountain route (Ruta de Napoleon) is closed from 1st November to 31st March due to difficult weather conditions and a lot of snow. Please, don’t attempt to walk over the pass during that time, it’s dangerous. You can be fined for 12 000 euros if caught.

In these months the stage from St.Jean to Roncesvalles is on the road through Valcarlos. It goes along the road and river from St.Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles. It’s an easier route with less elevation gain. This route is often used by cyclists. 

What is the scenery like?

Once you’re out of town you start going up over the pass. You’ll see pasture fields with cows and horses on both sides of the footpath. Once you’re higher up you start getting spectacular views of the surroundings; green mountains, valleys, and forests.

In the second half on the way down the Camino goes through the forest. 

The challenges of the stage

The walk from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles is the toughest stage on the Camino Frances. Especially considering that for the majority of pilgrims, it’s their first day on the Camino. The main challenge is the ascent that starts from St.Jean and finishes at 21 km/13 mi. You go up 1400 m.

Once you are on the top you start going down. The last 4 km/2,4 mi is a steep descent, over 400 m to Roncesvalles. 

There are a couple of places to refill water along the route and one food stall at about 15 km/9,3 mi. 

Elevation profile of the stage

The Napoleon Route from St.Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles is a challenging stage with a long and steep ascent from the town to the top of the pass and a subsequent descent to Roncesvalles. The accumulated ascent for the day is 1400 m and the descent is 650 m. 

The Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles stage description

You walk out of the town following Rue d’Espagne. Once out of the town follow the road. First Rte du Maréchal Harispe and then Rte Napoleon (D428). 

The long ascent starts from St.Jean. The first 3 km/1,8 mi are gradual. 

The steepest part of the ascent is between 4 km/2,4 mi and 7 km/4,3 mi. You go up 440 m.

The first 15 km/9,3 mi are through France, that part is mostly on a quiet mountainous road with very few cars. 

5 km/3 mi – Ferme Ithurburia (B&B) and Gite Harispe (B&B)

8 km/5 mi – Refuge Orisson (albergue/restaurant)

9 km/5,5 mi – Auberge Borda

14,5 km/9 mi – a foot truck with snacks and hot drinks.

15 km/9,3 mi – the Cross of Thibault, a memorial place with a stone cross. From this point the Camino route continues on a footpath.

The last 10 km/6,2 mi are on a footpath/gravel road.

16 km/10 mi you reach the border between France and Spain.

19 km/11,8 mi – an emergency shelter, a small stone house where you can hide in case of bad weather.

20 km/12,4 mi – Mirador de Lepoeder (a viewpoint), the highest point, 1400 m. From here you start the ascent. Over the 4 km/2,4 mi you go down 450 m. There are two route options from the viewpoint; to continue straight on a footpath through the beech forest or to go down following the road to the national road (N-135) and from there continue to Roncesvalles. The first route is steeper and the second route is a bit longer, 500 m.

25 km/15,5 mi the Albergue in Roncesvalles.

Places to stay in Roncesvalles

Most pilgrims stay at Albergue de Roncesvalles, the most budget option in the town. It’s a big old building with a renovated interior. The Albergue has 200 beds but they fill up quickly. In the season it’s better to book a bed in advance. You can do it online. 70 beds are available for booking. The price is 15 euros per bed. They offer half board (breakfast and/or dinner).

Other places to stay in Roncesvalles are more expensive.

My best tips for walking from SJPdP to Roncesvalles

• If you’re inexperienced hiker, split the stage. Stop for a night at Refuge Orisson or Auberge Borda.
• Start walking early in the morning to have enough time to complete the stage without rushing.
• Book a bed at the Albergue in Roncesvalles in advance so you don’t have to worry about getting there early.
• Make sure to have enough water and pack some snacks. 
• If you’re alone, try to join other people so you don’t feel lonely.
• If you don’t feel well ask for help. You can stop for a rest/food at Refuge Orisson at 8 km/5 mi or at 14,5 km/9 mi at the food truck.
• Carry some cash in case you want to buy food or water.
• Buy a local SIM card (French or Spanish) to be able to make a phone call in case of emergency. The 112 is the single European Emergency number. You can find other emergency numbers for Spain here and for France here.