The Camino del Norte is an 865 km route across Spain. It crosses four regions: the Basque Country, Cantabria, Asturias, and Galicia. The scenery on the Camino is fantastic; unspoiled sandy beaches, rugged cliffs, emerald meadows, the Atlantic Ocean, beautiful historical cities and towns, and lush green forests. This route is a great alternative to the popular French Camino. Both routes go parallel; del Norte follows the coast and the French Way goes inland.
It was our third Camino de Santiago that we walked in one year after the Camino Portuguese and the Camino Primitivo. In my opinion, del Norte was tougher than the other two Camino routes.
Table of Contents
Camino del Norte stages – downloadable PDFs
We’ve created free downloadable PDF files that contain walking stages and places to stay along the route. These files will help to plan your Camino del Norte pilgrimage.
You can find more details on the Camino del Norte including cost, accommodation options, transportation, and planning tips in our post A detailed guide to the Northern Way of St.James.
Camino del Norte route overview
- Total distance – 835 km*/518 mi
- Number of days – 30-34
- Starting point – Irún, Basque Country, Spain
- Finishing point – Santiago de Compostela, Galicia, Spain
- Average cost – 30 Euro per person per day
- Accommodation – public and private albergues, hostels, hotels
- Route marking – yellow shells and arrows
- Walking surface – asphalt, footpath, cobblestones
*following our route. The distance can vary depending on route options.
If you want to know what to pack for the Camino del Norte check our detailed Camino packing guide where you can find the complete list of items for different seasons for men and women.
Travel insurance for the pilgrimage
You can read more information on travel insurance for the Camino del Norte in our dedicated post on Camino travel insurance or get an instant quote right now.
World Nomads travel insurance has been designed by travelers for travelers, with coverage for more than 150 activities as well as emergency medical, lost luggage, trip cancellation and more.
Irún, the beginning of the Camino
Irún is a small town in the north of Spain on the border with France. If you have time you can stay here for a couple of days and visit Biarritz, a beautiful coastal city in France 30 km away.
Places to stay in Irún
Camino del Norte stages – our detailed itinerary
Stage 1. Irún – San Sebastián, 27km/17 miles
Irún – Pasaia- San Sebastián
The first stage of the Camino del Norte is quite challenging; two long ascends and descends on the way to San Sebastián. The scenery on the first day is amazing – one of the most beautiful walking days on the route. Most of the time the Camino goes through the mountains and forests. There will be only one town Pasaia on the way, in the middle between Irún and San Sebastián. There will be a couple of water fountains on the way to refill water. In Pasaia you cross the river on a small boat, it takes 1 minute.
Highlights
If you have an extra day I’d suggest staying for a couple of days in San Sebastián. It’s a great place and probably the most beautiful city on the Camino del Norte. There are many things to do here.
- Beautiful scenery; green hills, cliffs, beaches, forest, towns
- Pasaia – a cozy small town, a nice place to stop for lunch or coffee (though bars on the way were quite pricey)
- San Sebastian – probably the beautiful city on the Camino del Norte; sandy beaches, Oldtown, nice vibe, many pincho (pintxo) bars, and cafes.
Challenges
- Steep uphill that starts 3km after Irún, 250m altitude gain with a subsequent descent to Pasaia
- Steep ascend from Pasaia, 200m altitude gain with subsequent descent to San Sebastian.
Places to stay in San Sebastián
Stage 2. San Sebastián – Getaria, 26km/16 miles
San Sebastián – Orio – Zarautz – Getaria
It´s one of our favorite stages on the Camino del Norte. The first part of the walk between San Sebastian and Orio is through the forest and fields, there are two places to refill water. If you walk in summer make sure to start early most of the way you’re exposed to the sun. You can stay in Zarautz instead of walking to Getaria. The walk from Zarautz to Getaria is very nice and easy along the sea with great views of both towns. It was one of our favorite walking days on the Camino del Norte.
Highlights
- Beautiful sea scenery on the way from San Sebastian
- Seafront in Zarautz
- Old Town and the beach of Getaria
Challenges
- Steep uphill right after San Sebastian,
- Many ups and downs till Zarautz
Getaria is a nice little town on the sea with a small but beautiful historical center, cathedral, and many restaurants and bars where you can stop for a drink with a pincho.
Places to stay in Getaria
Stage 3. Getaria – Deba, 19km/12 miles
Getaria – Zumaia – Itziar – Deba
First 5km after Guetaria there are no places to stop for food – make sure to have enough water and eat breakfast in Getaria or take some snacks. After 5km you arrive in Zumaia – another town by the sea. After that, at 9km there will be a restaurant. The first half of the way ascents and descents, walking through the fields and open areas, the second half a little bit of walking along the road (not very busy though) and through the forest.
Highlights
- Beautiful mountain and sea scenery on the way
- Old Town of Zumaia
- Sanctuary de Santa María de Itziar
Challenges
- Up and down hills, the whole day you basically ascend or descend, very little walking on the flat.
Deba is a biggish town on the river with many restaurants and bars, a nice square and a couple of beautiful churches.
- ATM – yes
- Municipal albergue – yes
- Private albergue – no
- Hotel – yes
- Shop – yes
- Supermarket – yes
- Pharmacy – yes
- Restaurant, bar – yes
Places to stay in Deba
Stage 4. Deba – Markina-Xemein, 25km/15,5 miles
Deba – Ermita de Calvario de Maia – Olatz – Markina
In Deba, you walk 1km extra to get to the other side of the river because the Old bridge is currently closed for reconstruction. There is a bus that takes people to the other side, you can ask at the albergue how it works, we decided to walk. There are no towns or villages between Deba and Markina except three restaurants on the way.
Another option is to extend the stage from 7 km, walk from Markina to the Monasterio de Zenarruza, and stay there. We just stopped at the monastery on the way. I’d say it’s one of the not-to-miss experiences on the Camino del Norte. Accommodation and a meal here are for a donation. The monastery is located 20 min. walk from the nearest town Bolibar in a beautiful spot.
Highlights
- Beautiful mountain scenery from Deba to Markina
- Torre Barroeta
- Ermita de San Joaquín y Santa Ana
- Ermita (small church) San Miguel de Arretxinaga
Challenges
- Steep ascend from Deba to Ermita del Calvario, 200m altitude gain
- Steep ascend from Olatz (Taberna Zelaieta, 250m altitude gain
- A long and steep descent just before Markita with some very muddy parts, 350m down.
- ATM – yes
- Municipal albergue – yes, Albergue Convento del Carmen
- Private albergue – yes
- Hotel – yes
- Shop – yes
- Supermarket – yes
- Pharmacy – yes
- Restaurant, bar – yes
Places to stay in Markina-Xemein
Stage 5. Markina-Xemein – Guernica, 25km/15,5 miles
Markina – Iruzubieta – Bolibar – Monastery de Zenarruza – Munitibar – Berriondo – Guernica
Another day of climbing up and down with a bit of walking on the road with little traffic. It’s a nice walking day with beautiful scenery. There were a couple of restaurants to stop at for coffee or lunch on the way and quite a few water fountains.
Highlights
- Monastery of Zenarruza
- Ermita de San Pedro and San Cristóbal
- Torre (tower) de Montalban, Berriondo
- Church de la Ascención, Ajangiz (Guernica)
Challenges
- Several ascents and descents on the route.
- Steep ascend from Markina to the monastery of Zenarruza, 250m altitude gain.
- A muddy path on the way to Berriondo.
Guernica (Gernika) is a big town with a nice historical center though not very big. It became worldwide famous after a 3-hour bombing by Nazi aviation on a quiet Sunday in 1937. The famous picture of the town by Picasso is in the Reina Sofia Museum in Madrid, its copy is hanging at the Headquarters of the United Nations in New York.
- ATM – yes
- Municipal albergue – no
- Private albergue – yes
- Hotel – yes
- Shop – yes
- Supermarket – yes
- Pharmacy – yes
- Restaurant, bar – yes
Places to stay in Guernica
Stage 6. Guernica – Bilbao, 33km/20,5 miles
Guernica – Larrabetzu – Lezama – Zamudio – Bilbao
This is a long and challenging stage on the Camino del Norte. If you feel strong you can walk it in one go. We’d suggest splitting it into two stages especially if you walk in summer. In the second half of the route from Larrabetzu, you walk along the road, exposed to the sun. You can walk 21km to Lezama and the next day 13km to Bilbao, this way you’ll have more time to do sightseeing in the city.
Highlights
- Ermita de San Esteban de Gerekiz
- Beautiful forest walk from Guernica to Goiko Elexalde
- Monte Aro and beautiful views from the top
- The historical center of Bilbao
Challenges
- No places to stop for food during the first 17km
- Steep uphill from Guernika, 220m altitude gain
- Some very muddy parts at about 13 km mark
- Walking along the road from Goiko Elexalde to Zamudio, for about 10km, with no shadow
- Very steep ascend to Monte Aro with a subsequent steep descent to Bilbao, 320m up and down.
Bilbao is a big city with a nice historical part, many hotels, hostels, restaurants, supermarkets, ATMs, etc. If you have time and feel like staying for two days in one place, Bilbao is a great city to do it.
Places to stay in Bilbao
Stage 7. Bilbao – Pobeña, 26km/16 miles
Bilbao – Getxo (river)/Cruces – Retuerto – Sestao (mountains) – Portugalete – La Arena – Pobeña
There are two ways of walking out of Bilbao; we followed the river to Getxo where we crossed to Portugalete using the Vizcaya bridge (a transporter bridge) – quite a unique experience. You can walk the original route over the hills but it’s longer, doesn’t go through the modern part of Bilbao e.g. Guggenheim museum, and has steep ascents.
The beginning of the walk was nice; along the river, past the modern part of the city. The second half was through the industrial suburbs of Bilbao. To get to the opposite side you’ll have to cross the bridge. The crossing takes 2 minutes.
Some people skip this part and take a bus from Bilbao to Portugalete because they don’t want to walk through the industrial areas.
2km after Portugalete there is another split. We followed the official (historical) route that goes on the cycling/walking route to La Playa. The alternative route is more urbanized and passes through some populated areas and roads.
Highlights
- The modern part of Bilbao; Guggenheim Museum, Paseo de la Memoria, Parque da Ribera etc.
- The Bizcaya bridge – a bridge between Getxo and Portugalete, if you follow the river route you’ll have to use the bridge to cross it.
- La Arena – a nice beach town with good waves for surfing
Challenges
- Walking on the paved surface made our feet quite tired
- For about 8km after the modern part of Bilbao to Getxo, you walk through the industrial area, quite boring scenery.
- Very gradual ascend from Portugalete to Gallarta, 100m altitude gain
- A descent to La Arena, 100m down
Pobeña is not a town, there are a couple of houses and two bars, no shops if you want to buy something, do it in La Arena – a town 1km before.
- ATM – yes, in La Arena
- Municipal albergue – yes
- Private albergue – no
- Hotel – yes, in La Arena
- Shop – yes, in La Arena
- Supermarket – no
- Pharmacy – no
- Restaurant, bar – yes
Places to stay in Pobeña
Stage 8. Pobeña – Castro Urdiales (Cantabria), 23km/14 miles
Pobeña – Ontón – Baltezana – Santullán – Castro Urdiales
The Camino del Norte goes along the coast if you start early morning you can enjoy a beautiful sunrise – the best scenery of the day. After walking for about 4km you’ll leave the Basque Country and enter Cantabria where everything is a bit cheaper.
At Ontón the route splits; one goes along the coast (the alternative route) and another goes inland (the original way). Both routes are marked. The Coastal route is about 5km shorter than the official route. You do see more coast but it involves quite a bit of walking on the road. If you’re planning to stay in Castro Urdiales take the longer route otherwise you’ll arrive in the city too early and will have to wait for a couple of hours for albergues to open.
If you’re planning to keep walking we’d suggest buying food in Castro Urdiales there will be no other shops on the way.
Highlights
- Paseo Itsaslur – the first part of the route from Pobeña along the coast with a beautiful sunrise
- El Pico La Cruz (mountain peak) can be seen from Sámano
- The historical part and beaches in Castro Urdiales
Challenges
- If you take the coastal route (shorter one) you walk along the road with steep uphill through not a busy one
- If you take the original route – a steep ascend from Ontón to La Helguera, 240m up
- Gradual downhill to Castro Urdiales, 230m down
Castro Urdiales is a lovely town with a nice promenade, a beautiful castle, several churches, many bars, and restaurants.
- ATM – yes
- Municipal albergue – yes
- Private albergue – yes
- Hotel – yes
- Shop – yes
- Supermarket – yes
- Pharmacy – yes
- Restaurant, bar – yes
Places to stay in Castro Uridales
Stage 9. Castro Urdiales – Laredo, 30km/18,6 miles
Castro Urdiales – Islares – El Pontarrón – El Puente – Liendo – Laredo
In the first half of the stage, you walk through the countryside mostly flat with insignificant ups and downs till El Pontarrón. At El Pontarrón you have two options; take a shortcut and go on the road to Liendo or follow the official route over the mountains. People say the official way is much longer, about 6km than the shortcut, we walked it and it was only 3km longer though the ascent is quite steep and long. The scenery was beautiful and peaceful. We’re not big fans of road walking every time we have a chance we skip it.
Highlights
- Spectacular sea scenery at Cerdigo, halfway between Castro Urdiales and Islares
- The beautiful mountain scenery on the official route between El Pontarrón and Liendo
- Stunning sea views on the way between Liendo and Laredo
- Beach and the Old Town of Laredo with many restaurants and bars
Challenges
- Walking on the road for about 4km from Islares to El Pontarrón
- The very steep uphill walk from El Pontarrón to Liendo with a subsequent descent to Liendo, 200m up and down (if you walk the official route)
- Walking on the road for about 7km from El Pontarrón to Liendo (if you take the shortcut)
- The quite steep uphill walk from Liendo to Laredo
Laredo is a nice town with a long beach (nice for swimming in summer), a couple of beautiful churches, many bars, and restaurants.
- ATM – yes
- Municipal albergue – no
- Private albergue – yes
- Hotel – yes
- Shop – yes
- Supermarket – yes
- Pharmacy – yes
- Restaurant, bar – yes
Places to stay in Laredo
Stage 10. Laredo – Güemes, 30km/18,6 miles
Coastal route; Laredo – Santoña – Noja – Güemes
Inland route; Laredo – Colindres – Gama – San Miguel de Meruelo – Güemes
From Laredo, you can choose to follow the coastal route through Santoña or to go inland through Colindres. We’re big sea lovers and it was a very nice sunny day we chose the coastal way and were quite happy about it. On the way, you get to see a couple of beautiful beaches. In Laredo, you can walk on the beach for 2km to the ferry enjoying the sunrise. To get from Laredo to Santoña, you have to take a small ferry; the first ferry leaves at 9 am after that it goes all the time. The crossing takes about 2min.
Highlights
- Beach walk in Laredo to the ferry
- Nice coastal scenery on the way; Playa de Berria, playa de Trengandin, cliffs, hills etc.
- The historical center of Noja; Plaza de la Villa, the church of San Pedro.
- Albergue La Cabaña del Abuelo Peuto in Güemes is our favorite albergue on the Camino del Norte
Challenges
- Long day with quite a bit of road walking, and few places to stop in between. If you walk in summer make sure to refill your water at every drinking fountain (there are a couple on the way)
- Very steep uphill after Santoña, 83m up
- Many up and down hills all the way
Güemes is a tiny village with a couple of bars and hotels.
- ATM – no
- Municipal albergue – no
- Private albergue – yes, donation
- Hotel – yes
- Shop – no
- Supermarket – no
- Pharmacy – no
- Restaurant, bar – yes
Places to stay in Güemes
Stage 11. Güemes – Santa Cruz de Bezana, 25km/15,5 miles
Galizano – Somo – Santander – Santa Cruz de Bezana
From Güemes you have two options; 15km and 13km routes. The longest route is the most beautiful, I could say it offers some of the best views on the Camino del Norte. The route goes along the coast past some hidden beaches, dramatic cliffs, and unreal scenery – we’d recommend choosing it. The last bit from Laredo to Somo you walk on the beach if it’s a nice day you can stop here for a swim or just to enjoy the scenery. Even in summer, there are not many people on this beach. We were very unlucky that day it was very windy and rainy we couldn’t enjoy the walk or see much.
The 13km option is an inland route, it doesn’t follow the coast, and the second half is on the road. Both routes are marked, and both go to the ferry in Somo that you take to get to Santander.
Highlights
- Stunning sea scenery on the way from Güemes to Somo
- Playa de Loredo – a beautiful beach where you can stop for a swim
- Santander is one of our favorite cities on the Camino del Norte.
Challenges
- Walking out of Santander; the marking is not very good, follow yellow arrows or red crosses (mark Camino Lebaniego).
- The last part from Santander to Bezana is not very picturesque past some residential and industrial areas of the city.
If you have time you can enjoy rather a short walking day and stop in Santander. It’s a very nice city with some beautiful beaches, great restaurants and bars and many interesting places things to see.
Places to stay in Santander
If you decide to continue, make sure not to miss the arrows the marking from the ferry terminal is a bit confusing. You can get a map with a route and explanations at the information office, 30m from the ferry.
Santa Cruz de Bezana is a small town with not much to see or do.
- ATM – no
- Municipal albergue – no
- Private albergue – yes, (temporarily closed)
- Hotel – yes
- Shop – yes
- Supermarket – yes
- Pharmacy – no
- Restaurant, bar – yes
Places to stay near Santa Cruz de Bezana
Stage 12. Santa Cruz de Bezana – Santillana del Mar, 28km/17 miles
Arce/Oruña – Mar – Requejada (Polanco) – Barreda – Santialland del Mar
The first half of the day wasn’t that great; a lot of walking along the road, past some industrial areas, with few places to stop on the way – not too impressive. In the second half, at about 2km from Polanco, the nice countryside scenery starts; small towns, villages, and chapels.
Highlights
- Nice countryside scenery between Polanco and Santillana del Mar
- Santillana del Mar – a charming town with many interesting sights.
Challenges
- Walking along the road and through industrial areas till Polanco.
Santillana del Mar is one of the prettiest towns on the Camino del Norte. I highly recommend staying here. Spend some time wandering around the town, have a couple of drinks with delicious seafood pinchos, and visit the Collegiata church.
- ATM – yes
- Municipal albergue – yes (temporarily closed)
- Private albergue – yes
- Hotel – yes
- Shop – yes
- Supermarket – yes
- Pharmacy – yes
- Restaurant, bar – yes
Places to stay in Santillana del Mar
Stage 13. Santillana del Mar – Comillas, 22km/13,6 miles
El Arroyo – Oreña – Caborredondo – Cóbreces – La Iglesia – Comillas
An easy and pleasant walking day through the forest, fields, small towns and villages.
Highlights
- Church of San Martín de Cigüenza, Caborredondo
- Convento de las Carmelitas Descalzas, Pando
- Beautiful sea scenery at the entrance to Comillas
- Comillas – a beautiful town with some incredible sights, beaches, a nice square, many bars, and bakeries.
Challenges
- A little bit of up and downhill walking but nothing steep or long
Comillas
- ATM – yes
- Municipal albergue – no
- Private albergue – yes
- Hotel – yes
- Shop – yes
- Supermarket – yes
- Pharmacy – yes
- Restaurant, bar – yes
Places to stay in Comillas
Stage 14. Comillas – Colombres (Asturias), 29km/18 miles
San Vicente de la Barquera – Serdío – Unquera – Colombres
Quite a long walking day with several hills to conquer and few places to stop for food. At the end of the day, at Unquera, you’ll leave the province of Cantabria and enter Asturias. Asturias is a bit cheaper.
At the entrance to San Vicente de la Barquera, you can go down to the beach and walk on the sand across the town to the bridge Puente de la Masa. The way on the beach is a little bit shorter, you skip several up and down hills and it’s nice to take off your boots and walk barefoot on the sand. After San Vicente, the Camino del Norte goes away from the sea, inland over the hills, and through the forest.
Highlights
- Stunning sea scenery; cliffs, green hills, and beaches on the way between Comillas and San Vicente de la Barquera, one of the most beautiful walking days.
- San Vicente de la Barquera – a beautiful town with nice beaches, churches, el Puente de la Masa.
- The Picos de Europa – mountain range, view from the distance.
Challenges
- Several up-and-down hills
- Quite a lot of road walking though not on busy roads
- A steep and long ascent on the last 2km to Colombres
Colombres is a nice small town with a couple of restaurants/bar and a nice green park.
- ATM – yes
- Municipal albergue – no
- Private albergue – yes
- Hotel – yes
- Shop – yes
- Supermarket – yes
- Pharmacy – yes
- Restaurant, bar – yes
Places to stay in Colombres
Stage 15. Colombres – Llanes, 23km/14,2 miles
El Peral – La Franca – Buelna – Pendueles – Cúe – Llanes
For the first 9km from Colombres, there is only one route, that goes on and off along the road. After that, at Pendueles you can choose between following the official route and continuing walking along the road or taking the Sendero de la Costa.
The official route is a bit shorter and involves walking next to the road with some forest scenery. The coastal way of the Camino del Norte is longer it’s on the footpath and follows the coast offering spectacular scenery. To get to the coastal route at Pendueles first follow the route to camping La Paz (Playa de Bretones), from there follow GR-E9 trail (green making) that will take you to Llanes.
Highlights
- Beautiful sea scenery on the way between Pendueles and Llanes (coastal route)
- Bufones (jesters) de Arenillas – water geysers, if the conditions are right you might be lucky to see them in action
- Mirador de la Boriza with stunning views over the coast and Ballota beach (coastal route)
- Llanes – a nice town with many restaurants, bakeries, a colorful harbor, narrow streets, etc.
Challenges
- Some road walking in the beginning till Pendueles. If you take the official route you’ll continue walking along the road for a while.
- Steep up and down hills on the coastal route from Pendueles to Llanes
Llanes is a beautiful coastal town with a charming small historical center, and many restaurants, cafes, and bakeries.
- ATM – yes
- Municipal albergue – no
- Private albergue – yes
- Hotel – yes
- Shop – yes
- Supermarket – yes
- Pharmacy – yes
- Restaurant, bar – yes
Places to stay in Llanes
Stage 16. Llanes – San Esteban de Leces, 34km/21 miles
Poo – Celorio – Barro – Naves – Piñera de Pría – Cuerres – Ribadesella – San Esteban de Leces
A nice walking stage on the Camino del Norte, mostly on the path with a little bit of road, past lovely villages, through the forest. The route is marked quite well, there are several bars and restaurants on the way. The last 7 km to Ribadesella are only fields.
Ribadesella is quite an expensive touristy place. We decided to walk 3 km to the nearest municipal albergue in San Esteban de Leces but if you don’t mind paying a bit more I’d recommend staying in Ribadesella. There are no shops, restaurants, or bars in Leces, only an albergue. You’ll have to bring food with you.
Highlights
- Church of Nuestra Señora de los Dolores on the beach, near Niembro
- San Antolín beach, past Niembro
- A couple of cute villages on the way
- Ribadesella – cozy surf town with a couple of restaurants in the Old Town (before the bridge), picturesque harbor, beautiful beach Playa de Santa Marina.
Challenges
- Long walking day, 34km
- A steep ascent from Ribadesella to San Esteban de Leces (albergue), 110m up
San Esteban de Leces is not a town, just an albergue, and a church. There is nothing around; no bars, no shops, bring food with you. The albergue has a kitchen. You can buy stuff in Ribadesella, there are a couple of supermarkets in the town.
Stage 17. San Esteban de Leces – Villaviciosa, 33km/20 miles
Vega de Ribadesella – La Espasa – La Isla – Colunga – Sebrayo – Muslera – La Payariega – Villaviciosa
Quite a tough stage of the Camino del Norte mostly due to several up-and-down hills with beautiful scenery. It’s the only town on the way to Villaviciosa with ATMs and supermarkets. If you’re planning to stop at the municipal albergue in Sebrayo to buy food in Colunga, Sebrayo is only a couple of houses and nothing else.
Note! The distance between Colunga to Sebrayo is about 10km with a steep and long ascent. We didn’t feel like carrying backpacks full of food and decided rather walk all the way to Villaviciosa, after Sebrayo the walk is much easier.
Highlights
- Beautiful walk along the coast with some unspoiled beaches on the way from San Esteban de Leces to La Isla.
- Peaceful forest and mountain scenery between Colunga and Villaviciosa.
- Villaviciosa – a nice town famous for its ciders.
Challenges
- Several up and down hills all the way
- Long and steep uphill from Colunga to Pernus
- A steep descent to Villaviciosa
Villaviciosa is a small town with many cidrerias (bars where you can try local ciders).
- ATM – yes
- Municipal albergue – no
- Private albergue – yes
- Hotel – yes
- Shop – yes
- Supermarket – yes
- Pharmacy – yes
- Restaurant, bar – yes
Places to stay in Villaviciosa
Stage 18. Villaviciosa – Gijón, 29km/18 miles
Amandi – Casquita – Peón – El Pinal – Camping Deva – Gijón
A nice walking day with some steep uphills. There is a splint at Casquita, 3km from Villaviciosa; one route goes to Oviedo and joins with the Camino Primitivo, and the second one continues on the Camino del Norte to Gijón. It takes 2 days to walk to Oviedo on the connecting route. You can find more details on the stages and places to stay along the route in our PDFs. From Oviedo, you can follow our Camino Primitivo itinerary to Santiago de Compostela.
Highlights
- Beautiful scenery from the top of the hill at Alto de la Cruz.
- Gijón; historical center, beaches, promenade
Challenges
- Very steep and long ascend from Nievares to Alto de la Cruz, about 300m up. The subsequent downhill is not that steep but quite long.
- Another ascend to Alto de Curbiello – not as steep as the first one but quite demanding, about 150m up.
Places to stay in Gijón
Stage 19. Gijón – San Martin de Laspra, 31km/19 miles
Tabaza – Trasona – Avilés – Salinas – San Martín de Laspra
The indicated distance – 30km is from the city center of Gijón if you stay at Albergue Deva the walk is 5km longer.
In my opinion it was the worst walking day on the Camino del Norte; many roads, industrial areas, and cities but not many places to stop for food. Even at the end after Avilés the last bit was on the road. This is the day to skip if you’re planning to skip any. We decided not to stay in Avilés and continued walking 7km more to albergue de San Martin de Laspra, to make up some distance for the next day but if you don’t feel like walking more you can stop in Avilés, it’s a nice city.
Places to stay in Avilés
The albergue of San Martin de Lespra is located in the residential neighborhood there are no restaurants or shops nearby, and the nearest food places are about 2km away in the town. Make sure to bring food with you, there will be a couple of supermarkets in Avilés on the way (Alimerka).
Highlights
- The short part of walking through the forest at Alto Monte Areo (after the first uphill), about 5km from Gijón
- The historical center of Avilés: cobblestone pedestrian streets, squares, monuments, a couple of churches, and many bars, and restaurants.
Challenges
- Walking along the road and through industrial areas for most of the day
- Steep uphill to Alto Monte Areo at about 5km from Gijón
Stage 20. San Martín de Laspra – Soto de Luiña, 32km/20 miles
Soto de Barco – Muros de Nalón – El Pito – Rellayo – Soto de Luiña
We enjoyed walking through the forest and fields after the previous day of walking along the road. There are few places to stop for food on the way – pack snacks and bring enough water. We were quite happy that we walked an extra 7km the day before. Some of our fellow pilgrims had a very long walk from Avilés, 40km.
Highlights
- Beautiful forest scenery on the way from Laspra
- Palacio Selgas – a beautiful palace and garden in El Pito.
- Beautiful views over the coast and the beach at La Playa de La Concha de Artedo
Challenges
- A long waking day with many smallish ascents and descents
- Not many places to stop for food on the way
Soto de Luiña is a small nice town surrounded by green hills and forest.
- ATM – yes
- Municipal albergue – yes
- Private albergue – yes
- Hotel – yes
- Shop – yes
- Supermarket – yes
- Pharmacy – yes
- Restaurant, bar – yes
Places to stay in Soto de Luiña
Stage 21. Soto de Luiña – Cadavedo, 20km/12,4 miles
Novellana – Santa Marina – Ballota – Cadavedo
There are two route options on the Camino del Norte after Soto de Luiña; the mountain route and the coastal route. The mountain route is said to be dangerous with many steep ascents and descents and not well marked. There are no places to stop for food for 17km. It was advised to follow the coastal route so we did.
Highlights
- Beautiful coastal scenery on the way to and from Ballotas
- Beach in Cadavedo
Challenges
- All the way slight up and down hills
Cadavedo is a small rural village with a couple of restaurants/bar. The beach and the coastal scenery are beautiful if you have time walk to the coast.
- ATM – no
- Municipal albergue – yes
- Private albergue – yes
- Hotel – yes
- Shop – yes
- Supermarket – no
- Pharmacy – yes
- Restaurant, bar – yes
Places to stay in Cadavedo
Stage 22. Cadavedo – Piñera, 31km/19,2 miles
A nice day with a little bit of walking on the road, in the beginning, moderate up and down hills, past small towns and villages where you can stop for food or coffee. The albergue in Piñera is away from the restaurants and shops, you can stop for lunch at one of the places 2km before or buy food at the shop, 800m before the albergue.
Highlights
- Torre (tower) de Villademoros (not right on the Camino del Norte, have to do a detour) – a possible Roman origin tower
- Nice forest and countryside scenery
- Luarca – a beautiful small coastal town
Challenges
- Several intersections with the highway
- Up and down hills all the way
- The steep ascent that starts from Luarca and subsequent descent to Piñera
Piñera is a small village with a couple of houses, one grocery store and a restaurant.
- ATM – no
- Municipal albergue – yes
- Private albergue – no
- Hotel – yes
- Shop – yes, 800m from the albergue, on the way
- Supermarket – no
- Pharmacy – no
- Restaurant, bar – no, you can get dinner and breakfast at the municipal albergue (extra cost)
Two route options on the Camino del Norte from Piñera
- Piñera – Porcia – Tapia de Casariego – Ribadeo – 38km (coastal way)
- Piñera – Porcia – Tol – Ribadeo – 34km (half inland/half coastal)
You can find more details on the inland route in our PDFs.
Stage 23. Piñera – Tapia de Casariego, 27km/16,7 miles
Navia – Jarro – La Caridad – Tapia de Casariego
Another split on the route; the Camino del Norte is full of alternative routes and optional walks. As I already mentioned we always chose the coastal option this time wasn’t an exception, we went along the coast to Tapia de Casariego. It was the last chance to walk by the sea once in Galicia the route goes inland. It’s an easy walking day past many villages with no bars or restaurants if you want to stop for breakfast, coffee or a snack do it at Navia.
Highlights
- The ex-municipal albergue in Tapia de Casariego – is located by the sea, at the edge of the cliff with stunning scenery over the coast, there is a rocky beach downstairs.
- Center of Tapia de Casariego; the main square, church, and restaurants.
Challenges
- A very easy walking day, the only problem there are no places to stop for food on the way after Navia.
Tapia de Casariego is a nice town by the sea with beaches, a beautiful center and some great look-out points near the albergue.
- ATM – yes
- Municipal albergue – no
- Private albergue – yes
- Hotel – yes
- Shop – yes
- Supermarket – yes
- Pharmacy – yes
- Restaurant, bar – yes
Places to stay in Tapia
Stage 24. Tapia de Casariego – Vilela (Galicia), 20km/12,5 miles
Tapia de Casariego – Ribadeo – Vilela
Today you’ll leave Asturias and enter Galicia, two provinces separated by the River Ria de Ribadeo. The border between the two provinces is halfway over the bridge of Ponte dos Santos. A nice and easy walking day with some stunning sea and mountain views. We were planning to walk further but it started raining and we decided to stop at Vilela.
As an option you can stop in Ribadeo, it’s a nice town with food facilities.
Places to stay in Ribadeo
Note! Buy food in Ribadeo there is no shop in Vilela.
Highlights
- Beautiful scenery between Tapia de Casariego and Ribadeo; beaches, cliffs, fields, etc.
- Bridge between Asturias and Galicia – Ponte dos Santos.
- The historical center of Ribadeo.
Challenges
- An easy walking day except for heavy rain and strong wind that caught us in Ribadeo.
Vilela is a small place with a couple of houses and an albergue-restaurant.
Vilela
- ATM – no
- Municipal albergue – no
- Private albergue – yes
- Hotel – yes
- Shop – no
- Supermarket – no
- Pharmacy – no
- Restaurant, bar – yes
Stage 25. Vilela – Mondoñedo, 30km/18,6 miles
Villamartín Grande – Gondán – San Xusto – Lourenzá – Mondoñedo
It would be a beautiful stage if it wasn’t for the rain. The trail goes mainly through the forest and fields, past small villages with not many places to stop for food. The first place to stop for coffee is Vilanova Grande we walked in October and off-season the place is closed. We could finally eat something only after 16km at San Xusto.
Highlights
- Several churches and chapels are on the way.
- Mondoñedo – a lovely town with a beautiful cathedral, cobblestone streets, churches, and restaurants.
Challenges
- Quite a few ascends and descends – it felt like we walked uphill most of the day.
- If it rains the path in some places might be muddy.
Mondoñedo is a nice town with a small and beautiful historical center. We arrived in the town on Sunday most places were closed only one or two open restaurants and a small shop at the petrol station.
- ATM – yes
- Municipal albergue – yes
- Private albergue – yes
- Hotel – yes
- Shop – yes
- Supermarket – yes
- Pharmacy – yes
- Restaurant, bar – yes
Places to stay in Mondoñedo
Stage 26. Mondoñedo – Castromaior (albergue O Xistral), 23km/14 miles
Gontán – Abadín – Castromaior
Make sure to have breakfast in Mondoñedo – the next place to get food is about 17km away in Gontán, there is nothing in between. There are two routes from the cathedral of Mondoñedo: the official one and the alternative (Complementario) route but the one that is marked Complementario is the original route.
The official Camino del Norte route goes down from the cathedral and follows the path, it’s 7km shorter but has a very steep and quite long uphill. It gets quite muddy if it rains. The alternative route goes up from the cathedral, out of the town past the municipal albergue and then turns left and follows the road (with almost no cars). It’s 7km longer than the official route with a more gradient ascent. Both routes go through the mountains and offer great scenery. We took the alternative route it rained a lot the previous days we didn’t want to walk through the mud. Note! The only shop on the way is in Abadín.
If you take the shorter (official) route instead of stopping at Castromaior you can continue to Vilalba, the total distance from Mondoñedo on the short route – 32km.
Highlights
- The beautiful mountain scenery on the way from Mondoñedo to Gontán
- Church of Santa María in Abadín
- Beautiful forest scenery on the way from Abadín to the albergue
Challenges
- A couple of steep ascents between Mondoñedo and Gontán, on the official route about 450m altitude gain.
- Muddy path if you follow the official (shorter) route.
Castromaior is not a town or village there is nothing except a private albergue where you can get coffee, tea, dinner, breakfast, beer, wine, and snacks but everything is more expensive. The place is not big I’d recommend in the season booking your bed in advance.
Stage 27. Castromaior – Baamonde, 32km/20 miles
Martiñan – Vilalba – San Xoán de Alba – Baamonde
Quite a long stage with few places to stop for food on the way. We had breakfast at the albergue (3 Euro) next place to stop is Vilalba, 12km away. The walk was quite easy with no up and downhills. If you don’t feel like walking all the way you can stay in Vilalba there are two albergues; one municipal and one private. Apparently, the private one is very nice and cozy.
Highlights
- Vilalba – a nice town with a couple of churches, the main square, and the prehistory museum.
Challenges
- The road gets a bit muddy if it rains
- Long distances between places to stop for food or coffee; 12km to the first town and almost 20km to the next one.
Baamonde, is a small town with a couple of restaurants and a shop or two. Not much to see or to do here.
- ATM – yes
- Municipal albergue – yes
- Private albergue – no
- Hotel – yes
- Shop – yes
- Supermarket – yes
- Pharmacy – yes
- Restaurant, bar – yes
Places to stay in Baamonde
Stage 28. Baamonde – Sobrado dos Monxes, 40km/25 miles or 32km/20 miles
Carballedo – Seixón – A Lagoa – Miraz – As Laxas – A Roxica – A Cabana – O Mesón – Sobrado dos Monxes (the original route)
You need two stamps per day for the last 100 km to Santiago to get your Compostela certificate.
It was our longest walking stage on the Camino del Norte.
Sobrado dos Monxes is a must-stay place on the Camino del Norte, the monastery is impressive, and staying overnight there is a great experience.
Another route split – 3km after Baamonde there is a split; between the original route and the new route. Note! The split is 3km away from Baamonde, in the forest. There are two Camino markers with distances at the split.
We chose the longer route because it’s said to be more beautiful; forest, hills, and small villages.
The longer (original) route. Total distance – 40km to Sobrado dos Monxes mostly through the forest, except for the last 10km which involves quite a bit of walking on the road. As an option, you can walk 40km over two days. On the first day, you walk only 15km to Miraz and stay at albergue San Martin (donation) or 16km to As Laxes and stay at private albergue O Abrigo. And the next day you continue walking 24km to Sobrado.
The shorter (new) route. Total distance – 32km to Sobrado. It involves walking on the road. It says there are no food places on this route. There is a new bar right in the middle where you can get food. Not sure if they’re open on Sundays.
Highlights
- Capilla de San Alberte – a 16th-century chapel (after crossing the bridge, in the forest)
- Sobrado dos Monxes Abbey – one of the most impressive mastery complexes on the Camino
Challenges
- A long-distance walk especially if you take the original route – 40km
- On the 32km route, there is only one bar in the middle, at about 16km
- On the 32km route a lot of walking on the road
- On the 40km route, there are two bars at 13km and 15km and two more at 35km.
- About 5km walking on the road on the 40km route at the end.
Sobrado dos Monxes is a small town, the monastery is certainly the main attraction here. There are a couple of bars/restaurants on the square next to the monastery.
- ATM – no
- Municipal albergue – yes, the monastery
- Private albergue – yes
- Hotel – yes
- Shop – yes
- Supermarket – yes
- Pharmacy – yes
- Restaurant, bar – yes
Stage 29. Sobrado dos Monxes – Arzua, 22km/13,6 miles
Corredoiras – Boimil – A Gándara (Boimorto) – Arzúa
Today in Arzua the Camino del Norte joins the Camino Frances. Prepare to see significantly more people. The French Way is the most popular Camino route in particular the last 100 km from Sarria to Santiago. From Arzúa there will be more restaurants, bars, albergues, etc.
Overall it’s an easy walking day with many cafes and villages on the way.
Highlights
- A little bit of monotonous scenery; walking along the road, past towns and through the fields
Arzua is a biggish town with many albergues and hotels, everything here is about the Camino.
- ATM – yes
- Municipal albergue – yes
- Private albergue – yes
- Hotel – yes
- Shop – yes
- Supermarket – yes
- Pharmacy – yes
- Restaurant, bar – yes
Places to stay in Arzua
Stage 30. Arzua – O Pedrouzo, 20km/12,4 miles
Pregontoño – Calzada – Calle – Salceda – A Brea – Santa Irene – A Rúa – O Pedrouzo
At the exit from Arzua after a downhill on the cobblestone street, there will be a split, most people take the route on the left and follow the gravel path through the fields and the forest, this route is marked as “Complementary”. Both routes join again quite soon, after 2-3km you’ll see the distance markers again. We walked this part twice and every time we took the complimentary option (every time missed the second route). Both routes have more or less the same distance.
As an option, you can walk 35km from Arzua to Monte do Gozo – a huge albergue 5km before the cathedral and the next day walk the last 5km.
O Pedrouzo is a small town with many albergues, hotels, and restaurants serving pilgrim’s menus, etc. For most people, it’s the last stop before Santiago de Compostela.
- ATM – yes
- Supermarkets – yes
- Shops – yes
- Restaurants – yes
- Municipal albergue – yes
- Private albergue – yes
- Hotels – yes
- Pharmacy – yes
Places to stay in O Pedrouzo
Stage 31. O Pedrouzo – Santiago de Compostela, 20km/12,4 miles
San Paio – Lavacolla – San Marcos – Monte do Gozo – Santiago de Compostela
The last stage of the Camino del Norte. We’d recommend starting early if you want to make it in time for the Pilgrim Mass at 12 pm in the cathedral. There are not many places to stop for food and those that are on the way are quite expensive and have very limited options – rather eat breakfast in O Pedrouzo or pack snacks. The first half of the walk is through the forest with a little bit of walking on the road, past the airport and suburban areas of Santiago.
Santiago de Compostela, the end of the Camino del Norte
Arriving in Santiago is the most amazing feeling on the Camino, when you enter Plaza de Obradoiro and see all the pilgrims sitting around, and taking photos – you feel like you are a part of something big and important, take your time and enjoy this moment, you’ve been waiting for it more than a month.
There are many amazing things to do in Santiago de Compostela to keep you busy for a couple of days. If you want to know more about the cathedral and its history you can join Santiago de Compostela Cathedral and Museum Guided Tour.
After finishing the Northern Way in Santiago and celebrating it with fellow pilgrims the next day we started walking the Camino Finisterre-Muxía. It’s a 3-4 day route to Cape Finisterre. If you’ve walked enough but still would like to visit Finisterre and Muxía you can do a day bus tour from Santiago.
Places to stay in Santiago
There are many amazing places to stay in Santiago de Compostela for different budgets.
Camino del Norte route planning resources
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The pretty half of Stingy Nomads, responsible for all our land adventures (hiking, climbing, walking the Camino) and following them write-ups. Alya loves walking since she was a child, she prefers to walk 1000 km with a backpack rather than to do a 10 000 km road trip (actually any road trip). Alya is a big fan of Latin America, the Spanish language, and dancing. Every time we go away she desperately misses our dog Chile.
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