TOURING EAST AFRICA- FROM KENYA TO RWANDA THROUGH UGANDA: PART 1.

Ang: Si you come through….

Me absentmindedly: Sure

………………………………….

A few weeks to the trip

Ang: Sis, so about the trip……We should start planning for it.

Me: (The reality of the trip that I agreed to absentmindedly starts dawning on me)

I hesitate……

Ang: You already said yes, it will be an amazing experience. Plus, since I’m going to see family, we already have accommodation and tour guides!!

Me: Alright then,

What’s the budget of the trip?

Us: No more than 30,000-35,000 Kenya shillings (about USD 300-350 USD) per person. Preferably less.

*immediately checks flights*

NBO, KENYA TO KIGALI, RWANDA RETURN FLIGHT- 325 USD (32,500 KSHS)

US: AI!!! BUDGET Yote??!?!?! (The whole budget?!?!?)*

This was basically the entire budget for the trip, just on the flight.

Yes, we were set to stay with family in Rwanda so we did not have to worry about the cost of accommodation but using our entire budget on flight was not logical to us. Considering, we still had to include the costs of airport transfers with cabs, COVID tests, pocket money in Rwanda, money for souvenirs and any other miscellaneous expenses.

That would probably bring our budget up to over 45,000 KSHS (about 450 USD) or more EACH, and that was not a viable option for either of us.

>

*A couple of days later*

Ang: We should go to Rwanda via Road/public transport. It can’t be that expensive. The flight is not an option honestly.

Me: I like the sound of this. But I don’t think there are direct buses from NAIROBI to KIGALI.

Ang: There is the option of going through Uganda. We will stop at Uganda, explore it a bit and move towards Rwanda. Let’s find out if there is a border open.

There is. The Mirama hills border near Nyagatare in Uganda.

Sounds good. Let’s do it!! The plan is NAIROBI- KAMPALA-KIGALI, right?

Yes. What about coming back?

We will decide once we get to Rwanda. Maybe Tanzania??

And that guys, is how we planned for our trip around East Africa successfully. Well, part of it. Let me walk you through how we did that.

DISCLAIMER!!! Please note that the information given here is a personal account and should not be considered official information. Kindly check the different countries’ official websites to find the most applicable rules as you plan your trip!!

ESSENTIALS;

• A valid PCR COVID Test. Not more than 72 hours in advance.
• COVID vaccine certificate.
• East African Passport
• Yellow fever card
• US dollars. If you’re crossing different countries, dollars are the most efficient to travel with.
• Currency from the other country. Have some in hand before crossing. There are brokers at the borders to help with this but their rates are inflated. Do it earlier in Nairobi.
• Snacks and water.
• Warm clothes for night travel.
• Remember to pack light. Also, confirm the weather before packing.

FROM NAIROBI TO KAMPALA.

DAY 1: SUNDAY 28/11/2021

We travelled using a Mash East Africa Bus from Nairobi to Kampala. Booking was done online.

The tickets are 3700 KES (About 37 USD) for normal seats and 4000 KES (About 40 USD) for VIP Seats. We opted to go VIP since we knew we were in for a long trip. Great decision!

We had a pretty comfortable trip. The provided some drinks and snacks and the entire trip went smoothly.

It took about 18 hours including the stops. We left Nairobi at 5:00 PM EAT Sunday and arrived in Kampala on Monday around 11: 00 AM EAT.

We used the Busia Border and we were asked to present our COVID tests certificates. They needed to be less than 72 hours old for them to be valid. Depending on where you get your test, it can range from KES 2500 to KES 7000.

We also spent about KES 500 (USD 5) each on food and drinks along the way.

                                                                        BUDGET TALLY: KES 7000 PER PERSON

Day 2: Monday 29/11/2021

Kampala, Uganda is a small, beautiful calm city and nowhere nearly as noisy as the Nairobi CBD is. The drive within the city to the bus station was lovely. The air is clean, the weather was cool and the overall ambience was calm and collected. The people are polite and willing to help and connect. So Kind!

Our first stop in Kampala was to get an MTN SIM Card. The offices are right next to the last stage, you can walk or get a bodaboda for 1000 UGSHS (KES. 31 / 0.28 USD).

We got one shared Sim Card at about 10,000 UGSHS (KES. 310 / 2.80 USD) and we loaded it with 15,000 UGSHS (KES. 500 / 5 USD) airtime that lasted us about 3 days for both calls and internet access. We used one device to hot-spot our other 2 phones.

TIPS TO NOTE:

It is important to get a SIM Card to be able to communicate in areas without WIFI. Please get one!

Since we decided not to book any hotels prior to avoid the risk of booking an area that is hard to reach, we went onto https://www.booking.com/ to find accommodation close to our location. We found the African Tribe hotel that was in Kabalagala, about 15 minutes away from the Kampala CBD.

Fortunately, there was an offer on the website and we got a twin room for 24 USD ( KES 2,400 /85,000 UGSHS) for both of us and an extra 5 USD (KES 500/ UGSHS 18,000) for both of us if we needed breakfast. The hotel was actually pretty good!

They provided free WIFI, had a restaurant with a buffet in a safe, quiet environment very close to the town. They also had massage services, ranging from 20,000 UGSHS (KES. 700 / 7USD).We actually had our first meal in Uganda at a buffet for 35,000 UGSHS (KES. 1000 / 10 USD) each. It was an all you can eat buffet and best believe I went for everything. My absolute favorite was the peanut sauce (oh so rich and perfectly salty), the thick mashed matoke and the plantains. I love me some plantains!! From my tour, I realize that a lot of the flavors in East Africa are quite similar.

From the CBD we got an Uber from the UBER APP and it charged us 10,000 UGSHS (KES. 300 / 3 USD) to take us to the hotel.

We made friends with the Uber Driver, a lovely man called Bantu. As we chatted, we let him know of our intention to cross over to Rwanda. He first confirmed that it was possible to cross via the Mirama hills Border and advised us of the best route to use.

TIPS TO NOTE: Make friends with the locals. They are a fountain of knowledge.

After we freshened up and had lunch, went out to explore Kabalagala. We went on foot.

BUDGET TALLY: KES 9600 PER PERSON / approx 100 USD

I had my nails done (I paid 50,000 UGSHS (KES. 1400 / 14 USD, for polymer gel) at a local shop, bought a dress, ate some juicy street chicken and dinner, drank Ethiopian coffee. Street food ranges from 2000 UGSHS TO 6000 UGSHS ( From as low as less than KES 100/ 1 USD) Just a side note, the dresses in Kampala are stunning!!! And they range from 27,000 UGSHS (KES. 900 / 9 USD) which I think is petty affordable for the pieces you get there.

MISCELLANEOUS SPENDING: KES 3000 /USD 30

And that was Day 1 in Uganda and Day 2 of our trip.

DAY 3: Tuesday 30/11/2021.

TIP TO NOTE: Start your day Early.

We unfortunately started at 8:00 AM rather than 6:00 AM. This really cost us a whole extra night in Uganda or at least a couple more hours.

JOURNEY TO MIRAMA HILLS BORDER

We took a bus to Mbarara at the Kampala Bus station at 30, 000 UGSHS (KES. 800 / 8 USD) each.

The trip took about 5 hours. Unfortunately, we spent a lot of time in Kampala traffic, hence the tip to start early.

The drive to Mbarara was quite smooth. I really enjoyed this drive because we got to eat street food!!

We had the best marinated beef on a stick and some really tasty roasted chicken. We also had fried Grasshoppers(Nsenene) along the way. The playlist was also on pointttt!!

On arrival to Mbarara, we were advised to go to the Posta building and find Matatus to Ntungamo.

We made a mistake here because of the language barrier.Yes, Uganda is an English speaking country but as you move away from the city, you find more people who do not know the language. Instead of finding our way to the posta we decided to take the nearest Matatu to Nyagatare. We ended up paying 15,000 UGSHS (KES. 500 / 5 USD) per person but swiftly abandoned that Matatu after we realized it was going to be a very inefficient trip.

 We head to Posta and got a proper Matatu at 10,000 UGSHS (KES. 300 / 3 USD) per person and from there the journey to Ntungamowas a breeze.

Unfortunately, we ended up wasting an extra hour in Mbarara and arrived in Ntungamo at 6:00 PM. Which was late. Very Late.

Ntungamo to Mirama hills Border

To put things in context, curfew in Uganda starts at 7 pm. The distance from Ntungamo to the Mirama hills border was quite a long one, about a 40-minute drive and buses barely used that Nyagatare to Kabare road.

We were obviously afraid that the border would close at 7 pm, leaving us stranded at the border.

However, as we were chatting with the locals, they assured us that the Ugandan border was open till much later. With this and the time constraint in mind, we decided to use a motorbike, AKA Bodaboda to the Mirama hills Border for 30,000 UGSHS (KES. 800 / 8 USD) Yes, we attempted to cross the border on a boda doda. LOL!!

TIP TO NOTE: Find someone who speaks a common language and let them speak on your behalf.

The ride to the border was breath taking. It was a clean empty road with large beautiful plantations, hills and mountains as the backdrop and the sunset was absolutely stunning. That moment right there was worth every inconvenience we had faced on that day.

As we absorbed that moment, we decided we would be okay with any outcome at the border, sleep on it and proceed the next day.

TIP TO NOTE: Be flexible and patient on such a trip. It goes a long way.

Upon arrival at about 7.30 pm we met some immigration officers as they were locking up the offices.

We were informed on 2 things:

1. The Ugandan border closes at 7 pm.
2. We needed permission from Rwanda Immigration, acquired from the embassy in Kenya for us to be let into Rwanda.

Therefore we had no choice but to try again the next day since they were closed for the day.

Please note that the process would be much easier if we had travelled by air. No express permission is needed for air travel. This protocol is only for Land borders.

I strongly advise you to CONSTANTLY CHECK THE RWANDA OFFICIAL IMMIGRATION WEBSITE https://www.migration.gov.rw/home/ for updates on the different protocols since they are constantly changing and updated.

SPENDING THE NIGHT AT THE UGANDAN-RWANDA BORDER

With the help of the officers and the locals, we got a nice place to spend the night right next to the border.

It cost us a total of for 80,000 UGSHS (KES.2200 / 22 USD) self-contained rooms with a hot shower and free breakfast. The rooms were actually pretty good, clean and comfortable. The Mirama hills borde is a small and serene town andthe night was peaceful. There were other options for as cheap as 15,000 UGSHS (KES. 400 / 4 USD) per person.

We ate and drank a pretty great dinner for a total of 15,000 UGSHS (KES. 800 / 8 USD)

It was great to get some rest for the night.

BUDGET TALLY: KES 12,600 PER PERSON / approx 130 USD

And that was Day 2 in Uganda and Day 3 of our trip.

DAY 4: Wednesday 01/12/2021

CROSSING OVER TO RWANDA

First things first, we started with breakfast and a little exploration of the Mirama hills town. Such a friendly little town. But there was a bit of a language barrier but that is easy to maneuver with a little patience. Breakfast was Katogo (a.k.a Matoke with meat and matumbo-tripe) and it was so damn good!! Alongside the Katogo was a lovely cup of African Spicy Tea (all the tea I drank in Uganda was Exceptional) and the juiciest Pineapple slices.

We started the day at around 9 am.We were given the same explanation, that we needed permission.

 After quite some back and forth we finally settled on writing an email seeking permission from the Rwanda Directorate General of immigration and Emigration, we attached our passports, our reason for visiting, which was to visit family, among other details.

TIP TO NOTE: Seek all the necessary permissions prior to leaving the country.

Hours later, we were finally cleared at the Ugandan Border allowed in.

Welcome to the Republic of Rwanda!!

After the border protocols, the next step was clearing with the COVID protocols.

We were asked to present out COVID vaccine certificates. The alternative is presenting the COVID PCR results that we had earlier, but 72 hours had already lapsed.

Therefore, we were required to do a rapid test and a PCR test for 50 USD ( 50,000 Rwandan franc/ KES 5000) each. This is not necessary if you have your COVID vaccine certificates. If you have the vaccine certificates, all you need is a rapid test for less than about 1 USD (1,000 Rwandan franc/ KES 100). After testing we were required to be quarantined for the night until the COVID results were ready the next day.

We were quarantined at a government recommended facility for 36 USD (36,000 Rwandan franc/ KES 3,600) total for both of us including the transport, accommodation with individual rooms, dinner and a breakfast snack.

The place was just decent. No Wi-Fi or instant showers but it was clean and secure.

TIP TO NOTE:’ Always ask what your options are and do not make assumptions. You need to be very inquisitive and learn as much as you can.

The location of the quarantine accommodation, Nyagatare was about 100 Kilometers. We took about 3 hours to get there. Just a heads-up, the speed limit in Rwanda is quite low. I know Kenyans, we are used to a fast and furious experience on a casual Monday morning but here, the roads are……different. The roads are free from chaos!! Imagine the culture shock.

The speed is between 60-80 km/hr at most, so be ready for that. It definitely took me a moment to adjust to it.

KINDLY NOTE THAT THIS ACCOUNT IS BASED ON PERSONAL EXPERIENCE AND IT IS NOT BY ANY MEANS OFFICIAL INFORMATION.

KINDLY CHECK THE WEBSITE FOR UPDATES AND OFFICIAL INFORMATION ON THE CURRENT PROTOCOLS AND REQUIREMENTS.

THIS DISCLAIMER APPLIES FOR ALL BORDER PROTOCOLS MENTIONED THROUGHOUT THIS ARTICLE.

Finally, on Day 4, we were in Rwanda. Nyagatare, Rwanda. A quiet pretty little town that was our first home in Rwanda.

Our Final destination was Kigali Rwanda, About 230 kilometers from Nyagatare and we decided to pick the journey up the next Day. Without the COVID test protocols, we would have spent about 6 USD (6,000 Rwandan franc/ KES 600) from the border to Kigali Rwanda.