Your Guide to Matsumae: Sightseeing, Kimonos, and Food in Hokkaido’s Only Castle Town

Nobuka explores Matsumae dressed in traditional princess kimono. Just one of the unique experiences you can have in this town!

Located at the southern tip of Hokkaido, Matsumae is the only castle town in the region, rich with traditional Japanese culture and scenery, including a historic castle and streets lined with temples. Just a 2-hour drive from the popular destination of Hakodate (or 3 hours by train and bus), Matsumae is an excellent addition to any Hakodate itinerary.

In this article, I introduce the highlights and local specialties of Matsumae. With over 15 years of experience traveling across Hokkaido and having visited every city and town, I have written over 1,000 Hokkaido-centered travel and gourmet articles for various magazines and websites. Here, I’ll share my top spots, delicacies, hot springs, and essential information in this comprehensive guide to Matsumae.

All About Matsumae: Attractions and Accessibility

Matsumae: The Northernmost Castle Town in Japan

The Matsumae Castle Museum, located in the reconstructed tower of Matsumae Castle. It’s a great place to see the cherry blossoms! (Late April-early May)

Located by the sea facing the Tsugaru Straits, Matsumae prospered as Japan’s northernmost castle town during the Edo Period (1600-1868). Today, the town still retains many historic sites and landmarks from that era, making it a particularly popular spot for travelers interested in Japanese culture. While Hokkaido may conjure up images of idyllic landscapes of vast plains and pastures, Matsumae stands out with its rich heritage of traditional buildings and culture. Some of the most noteworthy attractions are Matsumae Castle, built in the late Edo period, and Teramachi, the surrounding temple district to the north.

Matsumae: A Bustling Springtime Cherry Blossom Haven!

Cherry blossoms at the Matsumae Domain Residence

Matsumae is also famous for cherry blossoms. Matsumae Park, home to Matsumae Castle, features nearly 10,000 cherry trees of 250 different varieties, including early and late-blooming types. Visitors can enjoy cherry blossom viewing from mid-April to mid-May each year. The park is especially gorgeous from late April to early May, when many varieties of cherry trees are at their peak.

While cherry blossom season is the busiest time of the year, Matsumae has much to offer year-round. The fresh greenery and hydrangeas of the summer, as well as the colorful foliage of autumn, help to showcase the town’s seasonal charm. Also, being located along the Tsugaru Strait, clear days offer stunning views of Aomori Prefecture’s Tsugaru Peninsula just across the water. The deep blue hues of the summer seas are another sight to behold, along with countless migratory birds soaring above during fall and winter.

Matsumae’ Delicacies: Matsumae-zuke and Seafood

Matsumae-zuke and tuna: delicious Matsumae delicacies you won’t want to miss!

Matsumae’s specialties include matsumae-zuke (a pickled dish) and seafood, such as the tuna landed in the Tsugaru Straits. Matsumae-zuke is a Hokkaido delicacy, a preserved mix of thinly sliced surume (dried squid) and kombu (kelp) marinated in a soy sauce-based sauce, said to have originated in Matsumae. Each household and shop has its own distinct flavor, which only makes them even more fun to try!

Tuna is available all year round at restaurants and onsen inns. However, peak season falls between July and fall, so if you visit Matsumae during this time, the tuna is sure to be fresh, not frozen!

Easily Accessible from Hakodate and Kikonai

Cape Shirakami: A scenic route from Kikonai to Matsumae

The best way to get to Matsumae is by car or bus. If you’re coming from the tourist city of Hakodate, it’s a roughly two-hour drive. Kikonai, located halfway between Hakodate and Matsumae, is home to Hokkaido Shinkansen Station, from where you can catch the bus to Matsumae. The journey from Kikonai to Matsumae is about 1 hour by car, or 90 minutes by bus.

The easiest way to Kikonai from Hakodate is via the Donan Isaribi Railway (approx. 1 hour, Japan Rail Pass not valid), or by Shinkansen (Japan Rail Pass OK) from more remote areas.

Kikonai is relatively easy to get to, with a bus stop in front of the station and rental cars nearby at Misogi-no-Sato Kikonai, a roadside station just out front (advance reservations required).

Note that both the Shinkansen and buses only stop in Kikonai a few times a day, so be sure to check departure times in advance.

Matsumae Castle and Teramachi: Must-See Attractions of Matsumae

Matsumae Castle Museum, located in the reconstructed castle

Matsumae Park is famous for its cherry blossoms, but its autumn scenery has its own unique charm

When visiting Matsumae, Matsumae Park is one place you won’t want to overlook! There are several attractions within the park itself, including Matsumae Castle, Matsumae Shrine, Teramachi, and the Matsumae Domain Residence. Given the park’s vast size, we recommend exploring the area around Matsumae Castle on foot, while the more distant Matsumae Domain Residence may best be reached by car.

Matsumae Castle Museum, located in the restored Matsumae Castle

Matsumae Castle is undoubtedly the most eye-catching building in Matsumae Park, known officially today as Matsumae Castle Museum. Originally built in 1854 for national defense as Fukuyama Castle, it is the northernmost Japanese-style castle in Japan. Later, with the transition from the Edo shogunate to the Meiji government, much of it was demolished in 1875. However, the three-story wooden tower (Honmaru Gate) and the eastern walls remained intact, and were designated as national treasures in 1941.

Unfortunately, in 1949, the tower and eastern walls were destroyed by a fire that broke out in a nearby town hall. But thanks to a following reconstruction movement in 1961, it was rebuilt with a reinforced concrete tower, which now serves as the Matsumae Castle Museum that we know today.

The windows on the top floor of Matsumae Castle Museum offer a panoramic view of the city and the Tsugaru Straits.

Next to the castle tower lies an expansive lawn, making it the perfect spot for photos. In one corner of the area are two historical spots tied to local legends: Mimizuka (Ear Mound) and Yami no Yo no Ido (Well of the Dark Night). Mimizuka is said to be where the Matsumae clan, after defeating the Ainu during the 1669 Shakushain Rebellion, buried the ears of the Ainu leaders they had cut off.

Yami no Yo no Ido is another legend from the same period in which a retainer who had fallen out of favor within the Matsumae clan was murdered by other retainers and left in the well. Afterward, a series of misfortunes befell the clan, which they attributed to a curse. Apparently, they even tried to fill the well, but to no avail.

According to staff at Matsumae Castle Museum, these legends aren’t backed by clear historical evidence, and the well itself may have even originally been located elsewhere. Nonetheless, if you’re into ghost stories and urban legends, it’s definitely worth checking out!

Yami no Yoru no Ido (Well of the Dark Night)

Take A Stroll Around Matsumae Shrine and Teramachi

The cobblestone streets of Teramachi

Across from Kitanomaru is Matsumae Shrine. The shrine is dedicated to Takeda Nobuhiro, the founder of the Matsumae clan that once ruled the Matsumae area. Behind the shrine is a temple town with five temples you can visit, including Kozenji Temple, home to the famous 300-year-old trees called Kechimyaku-zakura, or blood-red cherry blossoms. Here, visitors can enjoy a different landscape from Hokkaido’s typical idyllic image, as it still retains traces of the Edo period!

Matsumae Shrine

The kechimyaku-zakura is a cherry tree of the “naden” variety. Legend has it that the spirit of this tree appeared in the form of a maiden. It’s also believed that all naden cherry trees in Matsumae Park are descendants of this one!

While Matsumae Park is home to countless cherry trees, the areas around Teramachi and Matsumae Castle are particularly scenic, with the cherry blossoms standing out beautifully against the backdrop of traditional streets and buildings, making it the perfect spot for capturing Japanese landscapes, as well.

The kechimyaku-zakura typically blooms in late April, with the peak viewing period extending into early May. Even outside of sakura season, the beauty of the temple district surrounded by lush greenery is definitely worth seeing. Remember to be respectful and quiet while visiting religious sites like the shrine and temples.

Kouzenji Temple, surrounded by Kechimyaku-zakura trees

Kechimyaku-zakura trees (Photo courtesy of Matsumae Town)

Matsumae Domain Residence: Become a Samurai or Princess for a Day!

Which outfit do you prefer? (Photo courtesy of Matsumae Town)

Be sure to also visit the Matsumae Domain Residence, just a 5-minute drive from Matsumae Castle. This facility is a replica of Matsumae’s townscape during the late Edo Period, also known as the Bakumatsu Era (early 19th century). In addition to the clan lord’s residence, there are 14 buildings in total, including merchant houses, inns known as “hatago,” and “kamiyui,” which functioned like modern-day hair salons.

Matsumae Domain Residence, a recreation of an Edo Period streetscape

Visitors may also enter the building. Pictured here is the first floor.

View from the second floor of the building

Some of the mannequins are quite realistic!

While you can thoroughly enjoy the Edo Period ambiance just by touring the facility, for something even more immersive, we recommend the Armor Wearing Experience! There’s a variety of traditional historical outfits to choose from, including samurai armor, princess attire, and townswomen’s garments, which visitors can wear as they explore the facilities.

Don’t worry if it’s your first time; the staff will gladly help you put on your kimono!

There are lots of great photo spots all throughout the facility!

Really want to feel like you’ve traveled 200 years back in time? Try on a samurai or princess outfit and wear it as you explore the Edo Period streets! They also make for fantastic photos of your trip. Note that due to crowding and staff availability, it’s best to make advanced reservations for the armor-fitting experience.

In late July, the Floating Hydrangea event decorates the residence waterway with colorful blooms. (Photo courtesy of Matsumae Town)

Matsumae Specialties: Tuna from the Tsugaru Straits and More!

Restaurant Yano: A Taste of Matsumae’s Local Delicacies

Rice bowl topped with wasabi-grilled tuna and served with homemade Matsumae-zuke pickles

For a true taste of local Matsumae cuisine, Restaurant Yano is the place to go! Located near Matsumae Castle, this spot is part of Onsen Ryokan Yano, and is open to both guests and non-guests. The restaurant prides itself on a wide variety of dishes using local ingredients, including tuna and Hokkaido abalone, with a focus on seafood from nearby waters.

The restaurant’s interior exudes a relaxing atmosphere

The menu includes rice bowls and sashimi made with fresh tuna, pasta and fried rice featuring homemade Matsumae-zuke, a seaweed bento called Matsumae Nori Dandan (made with hand-picked Matsumae seaweed, and Whale Salted Ramen, which is their take on local whale soup made with boiled salted whale skin and vegetables.

They also offer local fan-favorites, homemade burgers and katsu-curry. Most items on the menu feature photos for easy selection, but for those who’d like a more detailed explanation, the staff is happy to assist through the help of a translation app.

Tuna marinated in soy sauce and served with whole radish and egg.

According to the proprietress of Onsen Ryokan Yano says, if you’re visiting Matsumae, the tuna is the one dish you can’t leave without trying!

While there’s a variety of dishes on the menu, their fresh and delicious tuna is indeed a must-try. The shop strives to use fresh over frozen as much as possible, locally caught in Matsumae between July and December. Outside of peak season, they source their tuna from nearby waters like the Tsugaru Strait.

One of their most popular dishes is the Tunazuke-don, featuring tuna marinated in soy sauce served over a bowl of rice with seaweed, which you can enjoy with either wasabi or a blend of yama-wasabi (radish) and quail egg.

My personal preference is the yama-wasabi version, which combines the spiciness of wasabi with the mellow flavor of egg. The tuna is so delicious, you’ll want to savor it slowly before going in for another bite.

Homemade Matsumae-zuke

Along with the tuna, the homemade matsumae-zuke is another absolute must-try, delicious both eaten on its own or served atop rice. While not spicy, it has just the right amount of saltiness to whet your appetite. The textures of the slick kelp and chewy squid complement each other surprisingly well! So dig in, and indulge in the local flavors of Matsumae!

Imise Sakura: Soy Milk Sweets in Hokkaido’s Oldest Storehouse

Imise Sakura

Another recommended spot is Imise Sakura, just a minute’s walk from Restaurant Yano. This cafe is located in the oldest kura (traditional storehouse) in Hokkaido, built in 1831 and having since been renovated. Here you can enjoy meals and sweets made with Matsumae ingredients and soybeans grown in southern Hokkaido.

The cafe’s ambiance is enhanced by gorgeous glass lamp shades of different shapes.

The two-story building features the kitchen and counter seating on the first floor, and sofa and chairs on the second floor, with a partial atrium.

This table was crafted by the owner by repurposing over 100-year-old teacups and a chest that had been lying around the storehouse.

The atmosphere both inside and outside the building is so impressive, you just might catch yourself saying “Wow!” the moment you step into this wonderful space. The ambiance reflects its long history, with many fixtures over 100 years old. It’s a gorgeous cafe that feels more like a museum or historical exhibit than a coffee shop!

The coffee is brewed right before your eyes!

Roast Beef Bowl with local beef, yose-tofu, and fresh soy milk

Meals include roast beef bowls and pasta served with soy milk and yose-tofu. The Roast Beef Don is a rice bowl topped with roast beef and a soft-boiled hot spring egg. We recommend trying it first by mixing the egg into the dish. Then, change up the flavor by pouring the soy milk over it-the signature way to eat it at Imise Sakura!

The tender roast beef, sourced from Hokkaido beef thigh, is slow-cooked at low temperature for three hours and topped with a special sauce. Adding in the rich soy milk gives it a creamy, risotto-like texture with a mild flavor. This combination of roast beef, rice, and soy milk pairs surprisingly well together, so if you happen to check out this spot, be sure to give this dish a try!

Start by mixing in the onsen egg, then add soy milk and enjoy!

Onsen Ryokan Yano: A Relaxing Inn for Hot Springs and Delicious Meals

Natsuko Kudo, proprietress of Onsen Ryokan Yano

This long-established ryokan in Matsumae was founded in 1951. Here, you can fully enjoy local ingredients like Matsumae tuna, Ezo abalone, and rock seaweed. Of course, there’s also the hot springs! It also makes an ideal travel base when exploring Matsumae, as both Matsumae Castle and Teramachi are within walking distance.

Room with a view of Matsumae Castle (Photo courtesy of Onsen Ryokan Yano)

There are four types of guest room: Japanese-style (both large and small), rooms with views of Matsumae Castle, and the spacious Japanese-modern rooms with wooden bathtubs. The Japanese-style rooms come in a few variations, such as whether they have baths or showers with toilet, and those with an attached bedroom.

The open-air bath with garden view. Plum blossoms, camellias, and azaleas may also be in bloom! (Varies by season) (Photo: Onsen Ryokan Yano)

The separated men’s and women’s public baths include an indoor bath, an outdoor bath, and a sauna. The tea-colored water is sourced from a private spring, and is said to have skin-smoothing benefits. So relax with a beautifying soak, and cleanse yourself body and soul!

Example of dinner course (Onsen Ryokan Yano)

One of the best parts of a ryokan stay is the food! Both dinner and breakfast are served at Restaurant Yano on the first floor. These meals differ from what’s normally served at the restaurant for lunch, and feature a menu that’s exclusive to guests. The focus is on local seasonal ingredients, with dishes such as tuna sashimi, Ezo abalone (both grilled and as sashimi), nabe and miso soup made with Matsumae kelp, and steamed custard with sea urchin.

Dinner is served as a course meal, with each dish freshly prepared and brought out in succession. During my stay, I enjoyed a thoroughly satisfying course of numerous dishes, finishing up with Herring Soba, another Matsumae favorite and specialty from the Sea of Japan side of southern Hokkaido.

It was the perfect finale, and one that leaves you feeling happy, full, and utterly satisfied with every last delicious bite! Of course, I thoroughly enjoyed each dish, making this one spot highly recommended for indulging in the flavors of Matsumae!

Experience History and Food to the Fullest in Matsumae

Matsumae is a city in Hokkaido steeped in the traditional Japanese atmosphere that visitors love. It’s also easy to get to, at just 2 hours away from Hakodate by car, and accessible by bus from the Shinkansen station. Matsumae’s gourmet delights, including bluefin tuna, are are absolutely delightful. So why not plan a trip to Matsumae, and immerse yourself in its delicious food and history?

English translation by: Krys Suzuki

Written by:

A travel creator who has traveled all over Hokkaido in search of spectacular scenery and local gourmet food, Nobuka moved to Hokkaido from Tokyo in 2009. Since then, she has continued to photograph and write articles on Hokkaido travel and food for LIVE JAPAN and other tourism websites and travel magazines. She is a certified Hokkaido Tourism Master, a title given to Hokkaido tourism experts by the Hokkaido Chamber of Commerce and Industry, and also holds certifications as a Domestic Travel Service Supervisor and Chief Itinerary Manager. As a transgender person herself, she runs a support group to create an environment that makes travel easier for LGBTQ people, and also gives lectures and talks at universities and companies.