NEWPORT NEWS — Francisco Village Shopping Center — in the midtown area of Newport News — looks bleak with the remnants of the old Food Lion boarded up and the parking lot nearly empty. But that’s not stopping new shops from opening.
Tucked away in the corner is Lormnava Afrik Cuisine owned by Ghana-born chef and owner, Mary Kuti, who started cooking when she was 12. She moved to Virginia two years ago with her husband, who is now retired from the Navy.
The takeout spot — with two tables and chairs — opened in August and offers authentic Ghanaian soul food. Lormnava is from the Ewe tribe which means come with love.
The menu consists of three appetizers such as kelewele (sweet and spicy fried plantains), three seafood dishes (whole fried tilapia, snapper, shrimp) and a few traditional soups, stews and main entrees such as peanut butter soup, okra stew and jollof rice.
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During my recent visit, the smell of spices drifted from behind the wicker doors leading to the kitchen. I could hear pots and pans clinking. I imagined foods with rich histories being prepared with love. I tried to peek when the door opened but to no avail. African print and handheld fans hung on the yellow-painted walls along with artifacts. They made the medium-sized room feel cozy so I decided to eat there.
I ordered chicken pepper soup (mild-spice level) with fufu (a doughy ball) for lunch and other items to take home. My meal arrived in containers and on a platter with an empty bowl. The steam from the soup tickled my nose with the aroma of braised chicken and herbs. I sampled the red broth before pouring some into the bowl. The tomatoey liquid had a hint of heat and the dark meat fell off the bone.
The fufu consisted of cassava (yuca) and plantains that have been boiled and rolled into a pliable ball — about the size of my fist. By itself, it tasted like bland potatoes but added to the soup, the texture reminded me of dumplings. I pinched pieces off, dipped them into the soup, grabbing chicken with it — yes, I burned my fingertips. I enjoyed the bite and ate it until it was almost gone. I put the remaining fufu into the last of my soup and scooped it with a spoon. Kuti said that’s how it’s normally eaten. I guess I’ve watched too many YouTube videos on African cuisine and assumed it should be eaten with my fingers. I didn’t realize immediately that I had dribbled the last bit on my shirt — my indicator that it was good.
Later that day, I put a meat pie in the oven to maintain its flaky crust. My husband, Curtis, and I enjoyed the appetizer but agreed that it needed more beef. The pastry-to-meat ratio was off. But the sweetness of the bread and savory beef satisfied my palate.
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We shared the jollof rice with stewed chicken (medium-spice level) for dinner — the other protein options at the restaurant were fish, goat meat and beef. The entrée came with fried plantains and coleslaw mix (cabbage and carrots) which we did not eat. The meal reheated well in the microwave. The tomato-based dish was so tasty it had me contemplating going back to Lormnava the next day. The deliciousness came from the seasonings: They were smoky and spicy with a touch of sweetness, a perfect combination for a sensual experience.
Rekaya Gibson, 757-295-8809, rekaya.gibson@virginia.media; on Twitter @gibsonrekaya
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Where: 10153 Jefferson Ave., Newport News
Hours: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday: noon to 7 p.m. Sunday
Prices: Appetizers $4 to $5: soup and stews $13 to $19: entrees $13 to $19
Contact: 757-755-7415; lormnavaafrikcuisine.com
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